I make all the pleats pointing the same way, with the ones next to the aprons extra deep. No reverse pleats.

This might not be all that relevant if you are not climbing over styles, ascending steep gradients, vaulting gates etc. I'd estimate that the apron pleats are usually 7 to 8 inches deep. I do not shorten it at the bottom but raise the top edge into the waistband. (I tend to use up all the fabric, so during my shrinking phases some kilts have larger or smaller pleats which are adjusted in the next reduction, and should eventually result in perfectly even pleating.)

It might be the flare of my child bearing hips, but if I keep the top edge level with the aprons, the large pleats roll open, so the edges of apron/under apron - which are sewn, do not fold flat along the seam and the first small pleat is also distorted.

I lift the inner fold of the large pleats beneath the aprons to pull the fabric back inside the pleat - I usually do it by trying on with the pleats held with safety pins as the exact amount of lift varies, I think it depends on exactly where on the curve the edges of the aprons fall. When I have lost weight I sometimes need to redo that lift.

The fold for shaping the edges of the aprons has an inner edge which drops below the level of the rest of the waistline - I tend to sew on the waistband so it just encloses that lowered edge. I shape the aprons 2 inches, so that takes 4 inches of fabric each side at the waistline.

If I lift one foot up to knee level with the edge of the apron on top of my thigh the pleat under the aprons and the first two small pleats allow for all that movement. The rest of the pleats still fall dead straight.