My first sewn kilt was not a "real" traditional. I managed to hit Jo-ann Fabrics when they had some 14 oz denim in black on sale for two dollars a yard double width. I bought the bolt. A google of Kilt making brought up X-Marks the Scot/DIY forum. There are many good suggestions there. It also brought up Kilt Making by R.E. Glover, and Kilt making by Jan Bruyndonckx. This lead me to getting The fine Art of Kiltmaking by Barbara Tewksbury ( Barb T on this board) Even if you should use one of the others, check out her suggestions on the kiltmaker's forum. They helped me through my first self colour kilt. I still wear my creation, with attachable cargo pockets at the fell. I simply took a pair of cargo trousers that I had expanded beyond, and studied the construction. I basically made two capri leg cargo pockets that hang from Velco and snaps on each side. On the pocket assemblies, I sewed at the bottom a flap of fabric that tucks into one of the side pleats, and snaps to the inner side of the pleat. When I remove the pockets, the kilt behaves like a traditional.