Pleated to sett or stripe?

[cloves]

so would this be an example of "cheating" the sett?

[ChattanCat]

so would this be an example of "cheating" the sett?

I guess "economizing" would be a good term. If you have similar elements that repeat in each sett, they can be used when it calls for the element. I really don't like having unequal pleat depths, and havn't done a kilt with unequal depths... until now.

I am working on a MacKenzie dress, pleated to the stripe. The sett is 10 5/8". There are two white stripes that will give almost the same pleat depth, only off by a little, 1/8". I am using 8 yards, if I pleated to the completet sett, I would need more yardage with the same pleat size.

Cheers,

[Barb T]

so would this be an example of "cheating" the sett?

When I use the term "cheating the pleats", I use it in the sense of some or all of the pleats not having a full sett in the hidden part of the pleat. You have to do this with a really large sett unless you're willing to settle for a small number of much bigger pleats. But, done properly, "cheating the pleats" doesn't show from the right side of the kilt because you still show the full sett in the reveal. What Wally describes is what I call cheating the pleats. The pleating in the first post in this thread isn't.