Update on Kilt Kamp 2009

[sathor]

I am thinking of asking for a sewing machine for xmas, they have one at walmart for just under 100, can't go too high end on a first sewing machine..

[sydnie7]

I am thinking of asking for a sewing machine for xmas, they have one at walmart for just under 100, can't go too high end on a first sewing machine..

I wouldn't go too cheaply, either. Nothing worse than trying to do a job with an ineffective tool. Amazon also carries a range of machines (typically with free shipping if you make sure you're buying from Amazon and not an outside store). Good discounts off suggested retail price. Their user reviews are pretty helpful for judging ease of use, initial quality, etc.

[Barb T]

I am thinking of asking for a sewing machine for xmas, they have one at walmart for just under 100, can't go too high end on a first sewing machine..

Better off buying a used higher quality machine.

[sathor]

Better off buying a used higher quality machine.

I don't like asking for used things as gifts, bad history on that, but I know if I mentioned it to my mom, I would wind up with one of those useless hand held machines.

[The Wizard of BC]

I don't want to hijack this thread or take it off topic of Kilt Kamp but my advice about sewing machines may help you.

If your plan is to make just one Kilt, and you don't have a sewing machine then try hand stitching a Traditional Kilt.

A sewing machine suitable for Contemporary Kilts is a rather specialized machine. Yes, it can be done on a home singer but the frustration of trying to make a machine do something it was not designed to do is not worth the expense and in the end will sour you so much that you may never make another.

Almost all home machines designed and sold since the late '80's have been designed for quilting, small repair jobs, and to dress up plain clothes with fancy stitchings. Most of them simply cannot handle the thickness of material that is required for Contemporary Kiltmaking.

It's not the power of the motor. It is the height of the pressure foot. A machine salesperson will show you that the machine will sew through two or three layers of leather and tell you it has the power but when you try to fit 18 or 22 layers of 12 oz Poly/Cotton under the pressure foot you simply can't do it.

My advice would be to find a pair of newer "Dockers" trousers and take them to your local Sewing Machine Shop. Put both cuffs together at the hem and then fold them double. This will give you approx. 12 layers of fabric. Then ask the sales person to to show you how to sew all the cuffs together right over the side seams. When you hit the Side Seams you will be simulating the sewing of a waistband onto a Kilt and hitting the Beltloops.

If you can do this and control the fabric, without breaking a needle or the thread then you have found a suitable machine.

It will be an older straight stitch machine with a simple 1/4" to 3/8" (4 to 6 mm) zigzag. It will be able to take no. 16 or 18 ball point needles. It will have a reverse. It will preferably have a knee lift lever to allow you to keep both hands on the fabric while you lift the pressure foot.

What you will find is that what I have just described is a 20+ year old Bernina, White or Janome machine. When you find it ask the retail person if you can talk to the repair person. Before you buy the machine ask the repair person if the machine pressure foot height can be adjusted, and if they can adjust the feed dog feet and timing on the machine.

The machine will cost you about $100.00 to $300.00 and then there will be a charge for the repair person to check the timing of about an additional $100.00 to $150.00.

If you bring that machine to Kilt Kamp I'll show you how to sew a Kilt with it.

If you have any other questions you can PM me or send me an e-mail and I'll help in any other way I can.

[sydnie7]

[snip]If you bring that machine to Kilt Kamp I'll show you how to sew a Kilt with it.

Still a slight hijack but it's connected to Kamp, and the prospect of presenting a Contemporary Kilt seminar.

How would one transport this type of machine from, say, San Diego to BC or NY or NC? Short of a shipping crate or U-Haul. . .

I respect your advice and have looked at such machines (haven't found the right one yet). But bringing one to KKamp seems impractical, from what I've seen -- they tend to be built into permanent pieces of furniture / shop tables.

A portable machine might not be able to completely finish the job at KK but at least I could get it there on an airplane.

[The Wizard of BC]

Actually the machine I was describing is a portable one.

I used to have a Bernina from the '70's that was portable and had all the features I described. But Bernina ceased making them and now make only Quilting machines. I think the old model was no. 88 or 8800.

The nice thing that this old machine had was a knee lift lever. It plugged into the base of the machine during set up and was almost as nice as that on my industrial machines.

The only real advantage of an industrial machine is the ability for them to last a VERY long time. Years of daily rough use and you can replace or repair every part of them.

The disadvantage of thinking you need an industrial machine is that most are designed for one specific task. They are used in shops where one person sits at the machine all day long and does the same job over and over. When the garment requires a different operation it is taken over to a different station which has a different machine designed for just that job.

An industrial machine will do the exact same stitch. With exactly the same tension and stitch length over and over. 2 or 3 million times at 2000 stitches a min.

The only reason I use Industrials in my shop is that I didn't want to be buying new machines every two or three years. But I do this for a living.

I'm describing a machine that you can buy fairly cheaply and put away when not in use. It will last and sew well enough to make all the Kilts one person can make for themselves.

I would also like to stress that I am not going to teach sewing machine operation or train someone to open their own business. I'm going to give all the hints and tips I have learned and developed over the past six years of making Kilts. Those internal construction techniques that you don't see in the finished product and those that will insure the Kilt you make, will look like a Kilt, will swish like a Kilt and will last for years.

It will not be my goal to teach you how to make a Freedom Kilt. You will not be copying any other companies Kilt or style of Kilt. The idea of the course is to teach you the basics so you can create something totally new and different. It's much more of a design course than a sewing course.

Here is what you will need to bring to Kilt Kamp for "The Art of Contemporary Kiltmaking".

1- Sewing Machine. With Zigzag if it has it. And don't forget the bobbins.
1- Steam Iron
1- Sheet of corrugated cardboard about 26" wide X 4 feet long rolled up. This is your layout & marking table.
2- Adhesive tape measures to stick on your layout table.
1- Straight edge or yardstick. 24" to 1 meter long. The measuring increments should be to 1/16", and nice and readable.
2 or 3- Tailors Chalk. Two colors is nice to have.
1- Pair of good scissors or an "Olfa" cutter and pad.
1- Large bath or beach towel for your ironing table.
1- Pack of hand sewing needles. If you are not used to hand basting bring a pack of long darning needles.
1- spool of basting thread. I like upholstery thread. In a contrasting color to your Kilt.
Enough fabric for your Kilt. Try to find a good quality, heavy, Poly/Cotton of about the same thickness as "Dockers" slacks. (Don't skimp on your fabric. Buy the best you can afford. The difference between $4.00/yard and $12.00/yard is only $32.00.)
You will need a minimum of 4 yards for a Kilt with a Hip size up to 42". And then at least a foot more for each pocket you want to add.
Your fabric can be a solid, a print, a Tartan, whatever. That is the beauty of the Contemporary Kilt. It can be made from almost any good quality fabric. (Please pre-shrink your fabric before the course. Throw it in the washing machine in hot water and heavy duty cycle.)
3 or 4 spools of a good quality machine sewing thread. I would suggest Guttermann brand 100% Polyester but the new Coats & Clarks XP thread will work just as well. If you want the stitching to blend with the fabric get a shade darker than your fabric. If you want contrasting stitching then let your imagination go wild.
2 packages of Fusable waistband interfacing. The kind that has perforations in the middle and can be torn into 1 1/2" - 2" wide strips.
Something for fasteners for your Kilt. This can be buttons, Velcro, Straps & Buckles or almost anything.

Then there are some handy things that you may want to have but are not necessary.
A pair of small pointed snips for cutting threads as you sew.
A thimble if you use one.
A 2" X 18" clear quilters ruler.
Some masking tape.
A flexible tailors tape measure.
A portable "Ott" light or other bright task light.
A 6" plastic triangle.
A Pen & pad of paper. This is for taking notes and also for marking on your masking tape and for recording your calculations.
A small portable calculator.

Day one -
The Design of the Contemporary Kilt.
The Fit of the Kilt.
Different Pleating Styles.
Different Pocket Ideas.
Measuring for your Kilt.

Day Two -
The Basics of Laying-out Pleats.
The Lay-out of Hems.
The Lay-out of Aprons.
How to fasten the Kilt.
The internal construction of the Kilt.
Stitching the Pleat edges.
Tapering the Fell.
Steeking.

Day Three -
Constructing and Installing Pockets.
Installing a Waistband.
Installing Belt Loops.
Adding the fasteners.
Finishing off your Kilt.
How to wear your Kilt.

I don't think anyone will be able to finish a Kilt in the three days of the course. A Contemporary Kilt takes as long, if not longer, to make than a Traditional Hand-sewn Kilt. But when you leave, you will have all the information you will need to go home and finish the Kilt and feel confidant in doing so.

[Squeaky McMurdo]

The disadvantage of thinking you need an industrial machine is that most are designed for one specific task. They are used in shops where one person sits at the machine all day long and does the same job over and over.

Oh no....memories of my days of making seamless socks at Wyoming Woolens have come flooding back to me....I'm gonna have nightmares for weeks.

My machine was no where near as efficient as it should have been though. It was on the verge of breaking down, the tension kept screwing up and it wasn't apparent until the sock checkers got around to inspecting them....I came in one morning (at 6 AM) to find that I had to unpick 800 pairs of socks. Not the best morning of my life. *groan*

[Don]

I am interested in the following workshop:
trad, knife-pleat: yes
trad, box-pleat: yes
contemporary kilt:
jacket:

For the latter two, could you bring a sewing machine?

I would come to the following venues (yes, maybe, or no):
Clinton, NY: maybe
Franklin, NC: maybe
Victoria, BC (Canada): yes