The origins of the Ghillie / Highlander Shirt

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Ok, I'm going to chime in here. There has been a lot of criticism of the so-called "kilt shirt" (which is variously called a Jacobite shirt, a Ghillie shirt, a Culloden shirt, a Highlander shirt, etc., but they all mean the same basic thing). One of the main criticisms is that it is not historically accurate.

This is true. Some have suggested that it has certain similarities to older styles of shirt, but this does not necessarily prove continuity. A modern "kilt-shirt" and a sixteenth century leinie, for example, are related in the fact that they are both types of shirts, but other than that, there is not much in common. A modern "kilt-shirt" has more in common with an eighteenth century shirt, but still, there are important stylisitc differences, mainly in the collar and cuff construction. These differences are important, if one is evaluating the shirt from the standpoint of historical accuracy.

In other words, if one is attempting to put together an eighteenth century Jacobite era impression, one of these shirts simply won't do.

On the other hand, the modern "kilt-shirt" can be said to be an "historically inspired" shirt. The attempt is obviously to create a somewhat historical look with the design. But my big question here is this -- why the need to wear an historical themed shirt with modern Highland attire? If you are wearing a modern kilt, why not simply wear a modern shirt? The kilt is clothing, after all, not a fancy costume. Who do we really want to look to for inspiration in our Highland dress -- examples such as the Duke of Argyle, Cameron of Lochiel, or Lord Lovat from the recent photo threads; or Errol Flynn and 1950s era westerns?

Since the "kilt shirt" is not really acceptable for accurate historical clothing, and it's rather out of place as part of a modern Highland wardrobe, as well, it seems suitable really only as part of a Ren-Faire like costume where the goal is to look vaguely historical in a romantic and not-necessarily-accurate kind of way.

Having said this, I must admit that the "kilt shirt" is a staple at many Highland Games and I have seen some very well put together "Neo-Jacobite" (a term I used in this article) outfits. It can look quite dashing. But I still maintain that such outfits would look out of place in any venue other than a Highland Games or similar festival.

[Kiltman]

Ok,

But my big question here is this -- why the need to wear an historical themed shirt with modern Highland attire? If you are wearing a modern kilt, why not simply wear a modern shirt? The kilt is clothing, after all, not a fancy costume. Who do we really want to look to for inspiration in our Highland dress -- examples such as the Duke of Argyle, Cameron of Lochiel, or Lord Lovat from the recent photo threads; or Errol Flynn and 1950s era westerns?

Yes, well said. If a modern kilt is a modern garment then one can wear a modern shirt and be confident that it is 'correct'. I, for one, don't consider a modern kilt to be in need of any justification from another era.