My first real Kilt...so many questions

[JSelf]

Hi guys. I have been a Utilikilt guy for a few years now. I want my first fancy pants nice tartan that I can slap on for "nicer" occasions. I work in the theatre and as a result know a lot of costume makers. They said they can make one no problem and I think this is a good way to have my own on the cheap. Here is my question?
I am in Chicago now and I have never experienced this kind of cold? How heavey to too heavey for wintertime kilting? I would like to wear the nice wool all year round but if it is going to be wool, I see this as my winter time kilt answer.

Being that I have no knowledge of sewing I wonder if it is possible to do, or if anyone has ever attempted to sew any "weights" into the bottom hem of the garment? I only ask because my Utilikilt is almost impossible to wear downtown in Chicago. The wind here really is something and I play a lot "conserve the modesty" when I go out and it's no fun spending every other second pulling down my kilt. Would weights destroy the hang? I am thinking some sort of small heavy weight slim fishing weight. Perhaps this is impossible and a mute question?

The forum has a lot of information on this but I will ask again. Where is the best place to get this kind of Winter weight wool fabric? Do I have to order online? When commissioning someone to do it for me, how much fabric should I order, I am assuming extra is safe. How much extra?

Also,I am not looking for the old school wrap around the shoulder look. I would prefer one that just wraps around the wast so I can add a jacket onto it later. Is the one that only wraps around the hip a particular style?

In your opinion, should I utilize the costume designer or the local lady I know that is Celtic and has a side business making kilts? By asking someone who does not have a lot of experience with this particular garment am I asking for trouble?

Thank you so much for your time. Long post. I am sure a bit redundant but I had trouble sifting through the posts.

[chasem]

Hi guys. I have been a Utilikilt guy for a few years now. I want my first fancy pants nice tartan that I can slap on for "nicer" occasions. I work in the theatre and as a result know a lot of costume makers. They said they can make one no problem and I think this is a good way to have my own on the cheap. Here is my question?
I am in Chicago now and I have never experienced this kind of cold? How heavey to too heavey for wintertime kilting? I would like to wear the nice wool all year round but if it is going to be wool, I see this as my winter time kilt answer.

Nothing is really too heavy, generally speaking. For winter-wear, I'd suggest a minimum of 16oz material. Of course, anyone who owns one here would tell you that anything heavier is certainly great as well.

The forum has a lot of information on this but I will ask again. Where is the best place to get this kind of Winter weight wool fabric? Do I have to order online? When commissioning someone to do it for me, how much fabric should I order, I am assuming extra is safe. How much extra?

Any kiltmaker can handle it, or nearly any shop that deals in Scottish stuff. Scotweb is a decent place to order from, and offer a discount for xmarks members (their banner is that one on the top-right).

In your opinion, should I utilize the costume designer or the local lady I know that is Celtic and has a side business making kilts? By asking someone who does not have a lot of experience with this particular garment am I asking for trouble?

The local kilt-maker is probably the better option, generally speaking, as she'd already have knowledge of how to make a kilt. However, the costume designer seems to have a lot of experience making stuff, if you got her to do it, I'd recommend picking up The Art of Kiltmaking by Barb Tewksbury.

Pretty much anything you need to know about having a kilt made, and it would be ideal for someone who has sewing experience, in making sure they get all the intricacies of a kilt. There's more to it than one would think (ie: it's not just cloth wrapped 'round )

[Tim Little]

First, welcome to X Marks!

On to your question:

I'll defer to the expertise of others here who have made or have had made kilts -- particularly those who live in colder climes -- but I think it would probably not be a good idea to have weights sewn in to the bottom of the garment... especially if the fabric has a selvedge rather than a hem.

Many here swear by the military weight (18oz/22oz?) kilts sold by What Price Glory (WPG) for winter wear. They are "off-the-rack" in limited tartans, not made-to-measure, but depending on how much you were planning to spend via your costume-making friends, it might not be a bad deal. I don't know how easy it is to come by wool of that weight otherwise. (Experts...?)

You can always commission your friends to make you another kilt for warmer weather....

As for finding a kiltmaker, my preference would be to find someone who has some experience in the craft.

[Alan H]

Costume makers are pretty amazing tailors and seamstresses, from my experience. So if one that you are friends with wants to tackle the job of knocking out a kilt, BUY BARBS BOOK and give it to them.

After reviewing it, they may change their mind, I might add.

Making an X-Kilt or what I call "throwing kilts"...meaning simple fabric with a mess of folds in the back, two overlapping aprons in the front and a waistband is dumb-dumb easy for a costumer. Making a real, no-holds barred traditional KILT with all the features is NOT so easy. For a costumer it will not be particularly difficult, but it WILL be time-consuming.

[Smayniac]

Costume makers are pretty amazing tailors and seamstresses, from my experience. (snip) Making a real, no-holds barred traditional KILT with all the features is NOT so easy. For a costumer it will not be particularly difficult, but it WILL be time-consuming.

I was married to a costumer for nearly twenty years. She can make a jacket almost in her sleep, but she has never indicated any interest in making a kilt for either me or our son. The biggest thing about making a REAL kilt is that almost all of the work is by hand.

Bob

[Pleater]

I make my own kilts, and have settled on a simple non sewn down design, as I am working on losing weight and want something which can be taken apart easily and remade from time to time.

I have done a bit of costume making, plus all sorts of clothing for everyday wear, but the kits are mostly hand sewn, as it is more accurate and gives a better result - in my opinion, though I only tried a couple of kilts on the machine and then decided I should hand sew. If I had persevered with machine sewing then I would have got better at it.

When going out in the cold I just add layers, in the wind I put on either a coat or cloak, and soon I hope to have an Inverness to wear, and so don't have to worry about the 'Marylin' effect.

I have the option to wear, in addition to the kilt, tunic, kilt liner, kilt hose, jersey and jacket, plus beret scarf, gloves and cloak for the really cold days, and so far have not felt cold here, even with ice everywhere.

Anne the Pleater