There are several ways to pleat [almost] any tartan -- to the sett, to one stripe, to another stripe, to "no stripe." BarbT has mentioned (and shown us) how she does "test pleating" to show the customer various options. That may be something else to discuss with your prospective suppliers.

Also, I think anybody buying a trad kilt should invest the ~$40 in Barb's book. Even if you never put needle to fabric yourself, it will give you a much better idea of what to look for, and what to ask about, when you are shopping.

Enjoy it!