There's a good reason I own ten traditional hand sewn kilts by Kathy Lare. www.kathyskilts.com Add her to your list to check out.

Couple nice things I enjoy is that she's a full time kiltmaker so the jones is shorter. And, she takes two payments - a deposit up front, and the balance on completion. So, you can get her started without having to pay for the entire kilt before it exists. She uses the deposit to bring in the fabric, charges you for her craftsmanship after the kilt is sewn up.

She's also very helpful in obtaining fabric options to choose from. And, if you wanna do it up big she was trained in how to sew military box pleats at Keith Kilt School...much different than what we talk about as box pleats here.

Don't think you can get the U.S. Army tartan in 16 ounce though...guessing its only in 13 ounce that Strathmore Mills makes their military tartans in. But even so, with deep hand sewn pleats its gonna still be a tank.

You're right to do wide research before you buy, you'll know the right kiltmaker for you. Just stay with dealing directly with a kiltmaker for a hand sewn kilt...middlemen complicate the process, isolate you from your kiltmaker, and sometimes lead to misunderstandings and delays.

Enjoy the process - its fun.

Ron