Sewing Machine problems

[Peter C.]

Thanks Wizard of BC for some great information. Now I realize that I was probably just lucky with my selection of needle and thread. The point I was trying to make was that you don't necessarily need an expensive machine for home use.
And with the information you have just given us I will probably be able to make my machine do anything I will ever need it to do.

Peter

[Eujeankilt]

Steve,

A sincere thank you for your response. I know you have plenty to do and I appreciate your time in responding. Secondly, I very much appreciate your detailed explanation. When I related your post to my wife, she said, "oh, someone who speaks your language". I tend to be linear and literal.

It does sound like what you explain is indeed happening. My recent project was a 14 oz denim kilt and where I had the most problem was the belt loops and buckle loops. I'm going through at least 9 layers of material. I think I just overwhelmed my poor machine. I have to switch around to multiple machines. My old Morse sews through most anything, but the presser foot doesn't lift very high. My Mother-in Law's Kenmore 158 has a high lift presser foot, but isn't as strong. I also have an old Singer 201-2, but it's presser foot is low as well. I'm sure on all models, when I get 9 layers under the presser foot, they don't move evenly past the needle. I've been toying with picking up an old used commercial Juki or Consew with a walking foot because of this. Would this solve the problem?

Again, thanks to you, Robert and everyone else who offered advice.

Dale

What I have found when experiencing the same problem in my early days of making Kilt by machine is this;

If the machine is sewing nicely on fewer layers but bird's nesting when you add layers this is usually what is going on.

The extra layers of cloth are causing just enough friction on the top thread to override the top tension of the machine.

An explanation.
As your needle goes down through the cloth the top thread rides in a small groove in the needle. The top tension is supposed to pull gently up on it to keep it taut underneath.
When the needle reaches the bottom of its downstroke and the hook passes the bobbin thread through the top thread the top tensision is released to allow for some slack.
Then the needle starts it upstroke and the top tension engages again pulling on the top thread hard to pull the bobbin thread up and into the cloth to form the lock stitch.

With many layers of cloth the friction of the thread through the cloth is sometimes enough to override the top tension. This can result in a ball of thread on the bottom of the stitch line.

Possible causes;

You needle may be too small a diameter. The smaller the needle the smaller the groove it has. You should match your needle with the thread you are using. Insure that the thread is not so thick that it will not tuck completely into the groove in the needle.

The top tension may be either too loose or may have fuzz stuck in it. I would check for dirt or lint between the tension plates. I would also check (If the machine is over a year or two old) that the plates are not worn. Mine will get a small groove worn in them and sometimes need to be smooothed out with a piece of 1200grit sand paper.

The top tension should be tightened as the thickness of your cloth increases. Not much but noticable. As a rule of thumb, with the machine stopped and the needle in its full up position, pull backwards on the tail of the top thread. There should be enough tension on the thread to cause it to bend the needle. When in doubt tighten the top tension.

Although not usually the problem but a possible contributing factor is bobbin tension. To check bobbin tension remove the bobbin and its case from the machine and hold it by the thread. Then bounce the bobbing and case up and down sort of like a yoyo. The tension on the bobbin thread should be just enough to allow the thread to slowly unwind a little on each downstroke. When in doubt back off the bobbin tension.

To check if everything is working try this;

Start sewing with four layers of your fabric. Sew enough of a line of stitches so that you can lift the fabric and check the underside of the stitch line.

Look to see if the bobbin thread has been pulled up and into the hole thru two of the four layers.

Then add two layers of cloth and stitch again. Re-check the underside of the cloth. The bobbin thread should now be pulled up into the hole of three layers and the top thread is still in three layers.

Continue adding two layers of fabric and checking the bottom of the stitch line.

Proper tension is when the top and bottom threads are pulled into the cloth and meet in the exact middle of your layers.

Another good tension short cut is the do this same test but with the machine set to zigzag. You can very quickly see correct tension settings if either the top or bottom thead is laying flat and the other pulled all the way through all the layers.

If this still doesn't fix your problem PM or Skype me and I'll try to help more.

[Canuck]

snip My recent project was a 14 oz denim kilt and where I had the most problem was the belt loops and buckle loops. I'm going through at least 9 layers of material. I think I just overwhelmed my poor machine. snip . I've been toying with picking up an old used commercial Juki or Consew with a walking foot because of this. Would this solve the problem?

Again, thanks to you, Robert and everyone else who offered advice.

Dale

I have a Pfaff straight stitch industrial machine that goes through the layers you mention no problem. I don't need to use the walking foot on the denim or hemp.
The walking foot is a different beast and takes some getting used to. Because the pressure foot is two pieces (an inner foot and outer foot) you need a steady hand to guide the material. It's overkill on two layers of lighter fabric, makes a heck of a noise.
It works well with multi-layered material and crossing seams. It doesn't run as fast as the straight stitch but can still go at a clip.
I would stick with a regular industrial either straight stitch or zigzag

[Dixiecat]

My recent project was a 14 oz denim kilt and where I had the most problem was the belt loops and buckle loops. I'm going through at least 9 layers of material. I think I just overwhelmed my poor machine

There is your trouble right there. It's not that you overwhelmed your machine it's that you have put so many layers under the presser foot that the top tension is loosened. When you lower the presser foot, the tension disks are engaged. As you layer more and more fabric under the foot you are actually lifting the foot enough to disengage the disks slightly.

Other things to check for:
- a Singer sewing machine needle. If your sewing machine is not a Singer you should NOT use this brand of needle in it. If your sewing machine is a Singer than you MUST use this brand.
- that you have inserted the bobbin correctly, refer to your manual. Most (not all) bobbins are inserted so that the thread comes off the bobbin from the left to the right (when the thread tail is pulled, the bobbin will spin a a clockwise direction)

If your thread is unthreading from your needle as you start to sew, that means your take-up lever was in the down position. After you finish sewing a seam, turn your flywheel so that the take-up lever is in it's highest position, then cut the threads. If you get into the habit of doing this, your thread will never come out of the needle.

[Peter C.]

More great information, thank you Dixiecat.

What a great thread.

Peter

[The Wizard of BC]

And the most important thing that no one has mentioned yet is tongue position.

When sewing really thick and tough projects the proper position of the tongue is sticking out of the right side of the mouth.

If you stick out your tongue from the left side it throws off the entire hand-eye coordination thingy.

You must also know the proper swear words to use. Sewing machines can only be sworn at with **^#* and never #^#^*.

Of course any real sewer knows these things. I'm just reminding everyone for the sake of our DIY member who may not have had that course in school. Or in case you slept through it.

[sydnie7]

And bare foot on the control pedal. No sandals, slippers, socks, nothing between you and the POWER.

[This rule may not apply to those who are A) attempting to maintain a professional image, despite having their tongue out, and/or B) not located in SUN Diego or similar climes.]

[Bugbear]

All I know is that when I was a little kid, I turned the tinsion knob on my mother's sewing machine... She is still reminding me about that thirty plus years later...

[Peter C.]

And the most important thing that no one has mentioned yet is tongue position.

When sewing really thick and tough projects the proper position of the tongue is sticking out of the right side of the mouth.

If you stick out your tongue from the left side it throws off the entire hand-eye coordination thingy.

You must also know the proper swear words to use. Sewing machines can only be sworn at with **^#* and never #^#^*.

Of course any real sewer knows these things. I'm just reminding everyone for the sake of our DIY member who may not have had that course in school. Or in case you slept through it.

Us learner sewers get plenty of practice with the swear words but I didn't know about the tongue, maybe things will improve now.

Peter

[Eujeankilt]

Believe me, I know the swear words, but I have to admit I didn't think about using **^#*

Dale

And the most important thing that no one has mentioned yet is tongue position.

When sewing really thick and tough projects the proper position of the tongue is sticking out of the right side of the mouth.

If you stick out your tongue from the left side it throws off the entire hand-eye coordination thingy.

You must also know the proper swear words to use. Sewing machines can only be sworn at with **^#* and never #^#^*.

Of course any real sewer knows these things. I'm just reminding everyone for the sake of our DIY member who may not have had that course in school. Or in case you slept through it.