Starting on my first true tank

**Pleater** · 27th May 09, 02:08 AM

No calculation involved, but the number 50 popped into my conscious thoughts at the question 'how many pleats'.

I have made a 50 pleat reverse Kingussie and, really, once you get over 20 pleats it is just academic.

These days (after making and remaking a fair number of kilts for myself) I take a load of small safety pins and join up the fabric into a kilt length, then measure separately along the top edge and then the bottom edge, pinning in the pleats. Finding that the fabric is transformed into something that lies right and looks like a kilt is good - discovering that something has gone wrong at that stage means just a quick shuffle of pins and not half a day wasted.

I then separate the pieces and open out the folds by pinning through two rather than three or more layers and press the edges of the pleats from the lower edge up as far as is appropriate.

This is not usual practise, from what I have read, but I find that it is a lot easier to get right on one thread of the pattern by pressing individual creases before sewing, and have been less pleased with the final result when I first pressed later in the process. It might be easier for this project too as that kilt is going to be quite a monster when all in one piece. I am assuming that it is going to be made from double width fabric so will have a seam.

I think this is going to be your masterpiece - may you have good luck with it.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**HeathBar** · 27th May 09, 05:01 AM

I can't remember if it was in The AoK or if Barb mentioned it on a thread here. But anytime you are making a kilt for a "man of substance", you don't really need to go with 1/2" reveals. I think she recomends no more than 30 pleats. So you might have to go as wide as 1". I'd be interested in reading what the layout is. At least it is pleated to the stripe and not the sett.

**Tartan Hiker** · 27th May 09, 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by HeathBar

I can't remember if it was in The AoK or if Barb mentioned it on a thread here. But anytime you are making a kilt for a "man of substance", you don't really need to go with 1/2" reveals. I think she recomends no more than 30 pleats. So you might have to go as wide as 1". I'd be interested in reading what the layout is. At least it is pleated to the stripe and not the sett.

Well, I have no choice in the matter as the kilt I make must match all the other band kilts, so the reveal width is non-negotiable.

As an aside, last year at a games here in western NC the band cook tent was set up right next to another band who had a drummer of considerable substance. I counted 55 pleats in his kilt.

And thanks to everyone for the good wishes. I'm looking forward to getting down to business.

**Barb T** · 27th May 09, 11:54 AM

Best of luck with your kilt! Can't wait to see pics. The pipe major rules in this case, and, because it's pleated to the stripe and not to the sett, you really don't have any choice about the width of the reveal. BTW - how big is the sett, and how much tartan do you have?

On the topic of number of pleats:

Originally Posted by Tartan Hiker

I counted 55 pleats in his kilt.

This is either a huge amount of tartan or a _very_ small sett. Figure an average sett of 6". 55 pleats would require 330" (9.2 yards) _just_ for the pleats. If the sett were 7", it would require 10.7 yards just for the pleats. For someone of substance, it takes at least another two yards (more like 2 1/4) for the apron and underapron. And that's not allowing for any center back join. So, for a 6" sett, it would take 11.5 yards of tartan for the kilt. For a 7" sett (which is pretty typical for 16 oz tartan), it would take a whopping 13 yards of tartan. Yikes.

Having more than 30 pleats is actually not typical, largely because you need so much fabric for a tartan with a typical (6-9") sett.

**Tartan Hiker** · 27th May 09, 12:52 PM

The set is just a smidge under 7". My son's 32" kilt, with 34 pleats, has 8.6 yards of fabric

I've got plenty of tartan left on the bolt.

As for the kilt with 55 pleats, as far as I recall it was a pretty typical sett...it was just an atypically substantial man!

**HeathBar** · 27th May 09, 01:09 PM

I have to ask because I heard of a similar situation with a local pipe band. They had a "man of corporation" join the band and they measured him for a kilt and had Locharron make it up. He quit 3 months later. Now the band has a kilt that fits no one. Does your son's band realize the amount of material to be placed in this kilt? And that if built to traditional standards (cutout of the pleat tops) that the material would likely be useless if he quits the band? Even if he plays for a few years, once he's gone, what is to be done with the kilt? It might be worth double checking with the Pipe Major, or whoever is in control. I guess I like to play devils advocate.

**Barb T** · 27th May 09, 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by Tartan Hiker

The set is just a smidge under 7". My son's 32" kilt, with 34 pleats, has 8.6 yards of fabric

That makes sense - 7x34 = 238", or 6.6 yards. Add 2 yards for the apron and underapron, and you have 8.6 yards. Sounds like about 1/2" pleats at the hips.

If the fellow you're making the kilt for has a 46" waist, and his hips are at least that big, you'll need at least 46 pleats across the back to have them be 1/2" pleats at the hips (more than 46 pleats if his hips are bigger than his waist). But assuming 46 pleats, 46x7 = 322", which is essentially 9 yards. Adding 2+ yards for the apron and underapron means that you'll need more than 11 yards for this kilt. Hope you have that much on the bolt!!

And remember that it's the hip circumference that you need to worry about, not the waist circumference, when matching the pleats to the existing band kilts and figuring out how much tartan you need.

**Sheep In Wolf's Clothing** · 27th May 09, 03:48 PM

Best of luck Tartan Hiker with your project! I loved working with heavy weight material!
Sara

:ootd:

**Tartan Hiker** · 27th May 09, 06:14 PM

Thanks Barb! Yes, I've got a bunch of fabric to work with, and when I told the pipe major that the kilt might have 12+ yards of fabric he didn't bat an eye. The band kilts have a reveal that is 3/4" at the bottom of the fell, tapering to 1/2" at the waist.

Heath, this guy has been with the band off-and-on for many years. He hasn't played with them for a year or so, and in the interim gained a bunch of weight. I hope they don't turn around and ask me to re-build it in a few months (although I'd like to think he'll get rid of the weight some day) but it's a lot easier to take it down than to make it bigger!