I'm sitting here looking at this wool. I'm in agreement that its 18oz strome. Pleating to the red stripe would make the pleat depth enormous, so its going to have to be to the white stripe. Its seems for a beginner, this is the best way to go. Instructions in the TAoK for pleating to the sett seem a touch more daunting than to the stripe. The weight of this material is really maming me lean towards a Box Pleat......