Next X- Kilt

[Shanntarra]

Ok, my show open's Friday there fore I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Hopefully it isn't a train

That being said I'm plotting my next X-kilt project. The left over Khaki from the rogue's X kilt is being made into a kilt for his best friend. He is a 36 waist, Rump 40 Fell 8 Drop 27. Since my rogue's kilt had a 20 inch drop I should have plenty to do his.

The rogue saw me working with some washed duck cloth for my current theater project. It was supple enough to be easy to work with, but not so stiff it needs the cement mixer. I also liked the way it took a crease really well, and kept it. He wants a black one and I'm thinking of trying this with the duck cloth. What do you guys think?

[sydnie7]

Alan H made an XKilt from duck cloth and reviewed it in another thread. IIRC, his bottom line was that it looked great but wrinkled like crazy and was a PITA to maintain. I think he ended up selling it.

Not to discourage you but be sure to read his thread before you go too much farther down the duck path!

[Shanntarra]

Right now my rogue's kilt takes a wrinkle even if you look at it wrong. Anytime he wants to wear it I have to give it a hard press. I'll check out the review and go from there. I'm thinking that the duck might be a step up.

[Farlander]

Quoting Alan from his fine X-Kilt guide:
"Canvas [or Duck] is indestructible and will wear like iron.
Carhart work clothes are made out of canvas, and you know their reputation! If
you sew it well, the kilt will last for a decade. It’s stiff and heavy, and will tend to
stay down in a breeze. However, it will wrinkle quickly, and you’ll have to iron it a
lot. It will look like a nightmare when it comes out of the washing machine. The
first two X-Kilt prototypes were canvas and I have to say that they’re OK, but I
sure like the cotton/poly twill better. In fact, I like it a LOT better."

If you do choose duck, you might want to trim the inside pleats at the fell so that they do not overlap. A serger would make quick work of this and prevent any unraveling problems.

[Shanntarra]

Is there something else you would think would be better? He wants black but the twill I can get my hands on just seems so... light.

[vorpallemur]

Is there something else you would think would be better? He wants black but the twill I can get my hands on just seems so... light.

Duck isn't really one fabric. It's a weave. It's a plain weave, with twinned warp and weft threads. (That's called "double filled", by people who care to call it anything. Regular canvas, which is plain plain weave, is called "single fill") It's almost universally made of cotton, but linen duck was common until the end of the 19th century, and fabric with linen warps and cotton weft wasn't uncommon, either. It comes in various grades, referred to by number. Smaller numbers are heavier than bigger ones. (the number is based on the weight of some bizarre area of fabric, which had meaning in deepest, darkest history, but which doesn't now.) You're probably working with #10 duck, which weighs about 15 oz / sq yard, or #12 duck (the lightest commonly available), which weighs about 11.5 oz/sq yard [weight per square yard of numbered ducks can be calculated as follows ((19 - duck #)/0.61). That's nominal weight, actual weight will vary slightly.]. I'm pretty sure that the canvas jacket I've got is made of #10, and the canvas trousers (yeah, yeah) #12. I'd think #12 duck would make a fine X kilt. Yeah, it wouldn't hold a crease well, and it'll wrinkle. But it looks good, and it wears well.

edit: I think some construction changes would improve how a duck x-kilt looked, particularly in the apron. Interfacing the edge hems, and the left edge of the over-apron, for instance. I'll think about that some more.

editthesecond: Duck will shrink. A lot. like 10% length wise, or more. several prewashings are in order.

[sydnie7]

I've made kilts from the Rodeo and Super Target (yeah, I know) poly/cotton typically available at JoAnn Fabric stores. They don't always have both, or the color you want, but bug them and they'll eventually turn some up. About like Dockers p@nts fabric, probably just fine for Texas summer and maybe winter depending on where you are.

Black denim is also a good look, wrinkles some but easier to handle than canvas/duck. Wash it several times, too.

[Shanntarra]

The rogue changed his mind. Since he wants to wear the kilt as a "buiness" kilt he thinks he will just go with twill and live with the wrinkles.
He may go with a duck/canvas one as a rugged "weekend" kilt. I told him he has to decided before the fabric is bought, otherwise he will have to live with it.

[fluter]

The rogue changed his mind. Since he wants to wear the kilt as a "buiness" kilt he thinks he will just go with twill and live with the wrinkles.

Then you'll have to teach him what a steam iron is for! Pressing kilts is man's work, anyhow. Maybe you can come up with some of Joann's cotton-poly, that might be better in the wrinkle department.

[Alan H]

My dear, how about a hemp/polyester blend, in charcoal? It such a dark gray that it's almost black. It takes a crease, it doesn't wrinkle and it's got swish and fantastic drape. The only downside is how much it costs, but then, how about your labor, huh?

http://www.nearseanaturals.com/item.php?id=1542

Also in indigo

http://www.nearseanaturals.com/item.php?id=1543

Concerned about the weight? That stuff is 16 oz per yard. I LOVE LOVE LOVE that material.