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20th October 09, 06:05 AM
#1
Steward Old Sett question
I'm planning on adding one more traditional kilt to my wardrobe. Both of my current kilts have family connections and I want to continue in that vein.
My Veitch ancestors were descended from Laird John Veitch of Dawyck who married into the Stewarts of Traquair. From the wardrobe standpoint, I'm looking for a weathered, muted option and am considering the Stewart Old Sett Weathered (http://www.lochcarron.com/tartanstro..._old_sett.html).
I'd would love to hear from the rabble about the appropriateness of this choice as well as input regarding any potential pleating issues for this tartan.
Slainte,
Ken
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20th October 09, 06:16 AM
#2
I think it's a great tartan, especially in the Weathered shades. It also has a huge sett, about 15 inches or so.
[B][COLOR="DarkGreen"]John Hart[/COLOR]
Owner/Kiltmaker - Keltoi
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20th October 09, 08:14 AM
#3
 Originally Posted by slohairt
I think it's a great tartan, especially in the Weathered shades. It also has a huge sett, about 15 inches or so.
Does the size of this sett present challenges when making a kilt?
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20th October 09, 08:23 AM
#4
It would depend on what style of pleating you selected. If it were pleated to, say, the red stripe within the black (charcoal) you could get away with using only half of the sett per pleat. They would still be fairly large pleats, however!
[B][COLOR="DarkGreen"]John Hart[/COLOR]
Owner/Kiltmaker - Keltoi
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20th October 09, 09:36 AM
#5
 Originally Posted by slohairt
It would depend on what style of pleating you selected. If it were pleated to, say, the red stripe within the black (charcoal) you could get away with using only half of the sett per pleat. They would still be fairly large pleats, however!
Well, what are the options ( and please excuse my total ignorance on this):
is it even possible to pleat to sett with such a large sett?
I kind of like the idea of pleating to that red strip in the charcoal... what are the issues with the large pleats, does this increase the amount of material needed, etc?
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20th October 09, 09:49 AM
#6
I vote for the weathered shades, but I suppose it depends on what you have in your wardrobe already. Either way,...enjoy!
David
“If you want people to speak kindly after you’re gone, speak kindly while you’re alive.”
Bob Dylan
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20th October 09, 09:57 AM
#7
Yes, it can be pleated to the sett. Obviously, if you included the full sett within each pleat you would have 15" deep pleats (plus whatever pleat reveal). This would use a lot of fabric. For someone with 40" hips using pleats with a 1" reveal you would need somewhere around 11 yards!
Most kilt makers would probably 'cheat' the pleats, by using the same looking element but making some of the pleats shallower. If you wanted uniform pleat depth (but not 15" pleats!) pleating to the stripe is the best bet.
[B][COLOR="DarkGreen"]John Hart[/COLOR]
Owner/Kiltmaker - Keltoi
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20th October 09, 11:50 AM
#8
 Originally Posted by slohairt
Yes, it can be pleated to the sett. Obviously, if you included the full sett within each pleat you would have 15" deep pleats (plus whatever pleat reveal). This would use a lot of fabric. For someone with 40" hips using pleats with a 1" reveal you would need somewhere around 11 yards!
Most kilt makers would probably 'cheat' the pleats, by using the same looking element but making some of the pleats shallower. If you wanted uniform pleat depth (but not 15" pleats!) pleating to the stripe is the best bet.
Great info, thanks! I think I would prefer knife pleats with a uniform pleat depth and I rather like the idea of pleating to that red stripe in the charcoal.
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20th October 09, 11:57 AM
#9
You're welcome! I've made a kilt in that tartan once, though it was in the Ancient colours and it turned out very nice pleated in the same way.
[B][COLOR="DarkGreen"]John Hart[/COLOR]
Owner/Kiltmaker - Keltoi
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20th October 09, 10:52 PM
#10
I've made a kilt in Weathered Stewart Old Sett - it's a fabulous tartan, but the only way to pleat it is to the red stripe. Cheating the pleats doesn't work very well on this tartan, and the sett is so huge that pleating to the sett would give only about 13 really big pleats. Not satisfactory in my estimation. Because the red stripe appears twice per sett, though, it's easy to get a "normal" number of pleats if a normal amount of tartan is pleated to the stripe, rather than to the sett.
Here are some pics:

 
I don't know if Lochcarron even weaves this any more. I checked a couple years ago, and they told me that it was no longer available. Maybe they've started weaving it again.
Last edited by Barb T; 21st October 09 at 08:55 PM.
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