"Jacobite" garb

[Woodsheal]

Think of the philabeg worn by Rob in the film Rob Roy: unpressed box pleats, narrow front aprons, no fringe, etc. Highland dress historian Peter MacDonald was the costume consultant for that movie, and that's what he believes early "little kilts" were like.
The notion that the first philabegs were hand-pleated each time by the wearer is a "reenactorism" unsubstantiated by any period documentation or image. Did they have a drawstring or belt-loops? Were the pleats stitched into place from the get-go? We simply don't know, as none survive from the period of earliest use. The earliest surviving philabegs date to the 1790's and feature sewn-in box pleats. Does this represent earlier practice? Probably, but again,we don't know for sure....

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Think of the philabeg worn by Rob in the film Rob Roy: unpressed box pleats, narrow front aprons, no fringe, etc. Highland dress historian Peter MacDonald was the costume consultant for that movie, and that's what he believes early "little kilts" were like.
The notion that the first philabegs were hand-pleated each time by the wearer is a "reenactorism" unsubstantiated by any period documentation or image. Did they have a drawstring or belt-loops? Were the pleats stitched into place from the get-go? We simply don't know, as none survive from the period of earliest use. The earliest surviving philabegs date to the 1790's and feature sewn-in box pleats. Does this represent earlier practice? Probably, but again,we don't know for sure....

As the feilidh-mor (the garment from which the feilidh-beag evolved) was an untailored garment, it is generally thought that the earliest versions of the feilidh-beag would have been untailored, as well.

However, there is a logical reason for leaving the feilidh-mor untailored. It was basically a blanket, and was used as such when not being worn. Having the pleats sewn in would take away from its functionality.

The same could not really be said of the abbreviated feilidh-beag, though. Being narrow in width, its use as a blanket would be limited, at best. It's primary purpose was for clothing.

So I can well imagine that it would not have taken long after its first introduction before people started to wonder, "Why am I pleating this thing up every time I put it on? Wouldn't it be easier to sew these into place?"

The first tailored kilts were very likely sewn up at the waist only. Later on they were sewn from waist to hip, as we know them. This is speculation, though. The truth is we do not really know. As Brian said, we only have surviving examples from the 1790s. The earliest kilt for which a date can be documented with any certainty is a Gordon Highlanders regimental kilt from 1796. It has less then four yards, and is box pleated with the pleats sewn from waist tio hip -- no tapering, no lining, no fastening, self-fringe on the aprons.

The fact that we have no surviving examples from before then does not prove whether the early feilidh-beag was tailored or not. But it does suggest not. One of the reason we don't see surviving feilidh-mor is that it was an untailored garment -- a large blanket. When the cloth began to wear thin and no longer be usable as a garment, it was likely repurposed. Any usable parts of the cloth may have been used for other garments, anything unusable may have been used for rags or thrown away. The same could be said for the fate of any untailored feilidh-beag.

[Woodsheal]

The same could not really be said of the abbreviated feilidh-beag, though. Being narrow in width, its use as a blanket would be limited, at best. It's primary purpose was for clothing.

So I can well imagine that it would not have taken long after its first introduction before people started to wonder, "Why am I pleating this thing up every time I put it on? Wouldn't it be easier to sew these into place?"

Plus - from what I've observed at reenactment events - the loose, hand-pleated version doesn't always stand up too well to active use! Your belt, which holds the whole affair together, is right at the top of the garment with only two or three inches of fabric above it. Running and leaping about, as during a battle, can result in an embarrassing heap of tartan around your ankles as the philabeg comes undone. I've seen this happen to more than one red-faced laddie!

The stitched-up version (or perhaps with a drawstring?) has more structure, and remains in its proper place around one's waist more reliably....

[Sir William]

Plus - from what I've observed at reenactment events - the loose, hand-pleated version doesn't always stand up too well to active use! .... The stitched-up version (or perhaps with a drawstring?) has more structure, and remains in its proper place around one's waist more reliably....

Quite so. This is why I've been more inclined to wear the full feilidh-mor as it is more likely to stay in place once donned.

Some of our group wear a feilidh-beag when the weather is particularly hot and muggy, as it tends to do in during Virginia summers, and almost all have sewn the pleats in at the waist - but with no effort to pleat to the sett or line.