Custom Weave Question

[cbishop]

As I am saving money for my first kilt, I have started looking at where to buy from. However, the tartan I want, which is set as my avatar, will have to be a custom weave. I know it will not be cheap wherever I buy from, but my question is this: Could some one who has bought a custom weave kilt recommend a shop for me and list specific reasons why this shop is good? Is there any shop I should avoid? Would it be best to order the matching fly plaid and flashes at the same time?

If there is anything else to add, please feel free to comment. Thanks!

[ForresterModern]

sorry but I do not recognize the tartan you are using as an avatar. Knowing that might help.

I have had one existing but non-stock tartan (Allen 1996) woven as part of an order from heritageofScotland.com over a year ago and it took a few months, but other than ordering it from the website I did not have to do anything. It was woven by Dalgleish and is nice albeit a bit lighterweight tartan than I was hoping for.

I have also ordered a machinesewn kilt from tartanweb this past spring (while they were having a sale) in the 8yd heavyweight any tartan kilt, my tartan being the rare Douglas Ancient Red, and they ordered it at the standard price with no problems, except that I have waited 6 months and still do not have the kilt yet. Tartanweb/scottishkilts.net have their any tartan 8yd machine sewn for around $406-430 plus s/h right now. I have another kilt from them that is well made, looks great, and fits like a charm.

I had a nother tartan order through HoS for what should have a stock 13 oz tartan but the weaver was out and I instead got a custom 16oz for the same price.

If it truly is a tartan that no specific weaver does as either a stock or regular listing, then I would recommend ordering from Dalgleish as they seem to have a decent rate for small single kilt size orders of 4 m at about 29gbp per meter plus shipping, although I am not sure if that is single width or double width. also, if you order your kilt through an established company or kiltmaker like BarbT, Matt, Rocky, Steve, Kathy lare, etc... they can order your tartan for you and likely get a better deal, as well as make up your kilt for you.

But it all depends on what tartan you are looking for. You may be surprised with a little online research what we can find available and the potential variety of prices and options out there. If possible I would get 16oz woven up--definitely the best weight for kilts IMHO.

[ccga3359]

I just ordered a kilt from Keltoi Gailic Clothing (Slohairt here on XMarks) that requires a custom weave. My cost for the 8 yards custom weave and kilt is almost $800 Cdn. The material is 16oz from D.C. Dagliesh and is single width only. I would order enough for your kilt and fly plaid at the same time as ther is probably a set up fee and up to a 3 month wait even if you can only afford the kilt now.

Unless you are making the kilt yourself I'd suggest letting your kilt maker deal with the ordering. Keltoi allows me to pay half up front and half when my number in his kilt queue come up which does make ordering easier. Matt (M.A.C. Newsome) at Scottish Tartans Museum, Barb Tewkesbury (Barb T.), Keltoi (Slohairt) all offer quality hand sewn kilts and are all members here. All are first class and do excellent work.

[cbishop]

The tartan is the Bishop tartan and has been registered through the Scottish Register of Tartans. However, it is restricted. I am working with the creator to set up royalties. The link to the tartan info page is here if you wish to look at it more closely:

http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tar...s.aspx?ref=266

This single/double width is a bit confusing. Is one preferable for kilts?

And Deil, thanks for the info on the plaids.

[Paul Henry]

DC Dalgleish will produce a wonderful fabric with a great selvedge , they weave single width usually for special orders for small quantities, it is a bit more expensive but I (and lots of others on here) are very happy with them. There is no difference between the quality of single or double, but with single you will get a complete length rather than having to join it, but joining fabric is really fairly usual, so not really a disadvantage.

[ccga3359]

This single/double width is a bit confusing. Is one preferable for kilts?

For an 8 yard kilt you'd need 4 yards of double width fabric (54"-60" wide) ripped down the middle and joined (hidden in a pleat) or 8 yards of single width fabric. For a box pleat kilt which is generally 4 yards you'd need only 2 yards of double width. I think single width makes life so much easier for asymmetrical tartans such as Maple Leaf. Luckily most tartan (guessing 99%) are symmetrical tartans as Bishop (STA#6798) is. A quick search on Tartan Ferret shows that you can also wear Inverness district (STA#1438) which might be easier to find. Then again Mr. William Bishop might have a source of ready woven material.

Having D.C Dagliesh custom woven tartan is costing me about $100 more than a comparable 16oz Locharran in an available weave. The knowledge of have a truly rare and unique tartan for me is worth it as I don't have a family tartan myself. Be aware, since you are considering a matching plaid (of which I have little knowledge of how they're made), D.C. Dagliesh custom weaves are single widths so you would have to order more than the 8 yards needed for your one kilt. Keltoi does offer several variations of the plaid for your consideration and information. He is offering until the end of the month a free fly plaid until the end of the month with the order of a kilt. Be aware that this does not apply to us of the custom weave crowd but only in 13 oz. Bute/Mean or 16 oz. Jura ordered material. A quick check doesn't show Inverness available in either material.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

A lot of the kilts I make are from custom woven cloth. One reason, I suspect, is that I specialize in the four yard box pleated kilt. Those of you on the forum who were math majors in college may have realized that a four yard kilt requires approximately half the yardage of a typical eight yard kilt. (I just checked on my calculator, and those figures are correct). :-)

When one is paying a bit extra to have cloth custom woven, keeping the yardage low helps also keep the overall cost of the kilt down. My price for a four yard kilt in custom tartan (heavy weight) is $495. This is right in the ballpark that many expect to budget for a typical 8 yard kilt made in a standard tartan. So it's one good way of getting the kilt in the custom tartan you want without breaking the bank.

[davedove]

Most places will provide you a set of matching flashes at little or no cost when you order a kilt, as they can be made from the leftover material.

If you want a plaid to match your kilt exactly (which isn't absolutely necessary), go ahead and order it at the same time, so that all the material is from the same batch.