I'm not sure if you skipped a step or took out the basting. The apron needs to be shaped and aligned before you baste the top basting. You definately need the taper in the apron. It needs to wrap around your thigh and cover the dinverted pleat. I would recommend that you continue with the process of basting and skewing. You will be amazed what a little steam and pressure will "mold" the material, especially the heavy weight material.

Kilt on,