another advantage ( in my, also beginning kiltmaker, opinion) for the box pleat: the pleats, in the fell, are not cut out - so: one can alter the kilt for expanding or skrinking waistline - or - add another 4 meters/yards, and make it into a full 8 yd knife pleat! ( This is what I did for my most recent: made a 4meter box-pleat - keeping open future option to 'expand' it into an 8 meter knife pleat "tank")