Hello Mellie and welcome to X Marks.


The Wool used by most of the prominent Tartan weavers is a combination of Lincoln Longwool, Coopworth, and Merino. The exact proportions are not always posted by the weavers. Most use a combination of longwool and luster quality. At least one uses only Australian Merino.

All good quality Kilt Wool is fully worsted and of a very hard twist.

A photo of the yarns pulled from 16oz. Kilt Wool during fringing.


The actual weaving is usually done on modern machines of three types. Some of the older mills use machines which produce the famed 'Kilt Selvedge' which is similar to hand weaving. Another type is of the rapier style loom and produces what is known in the business is a "Tuck Selvedge", and the third type of rapier loom produces what is known as a "Fringed Selvedge". Three of the Weaving companies still have and use hand looms for special orders. The cost of these special weaves is almost twice of that done on automated machines.

Photo of the difference between a Tuck Selvedge and a Fringed Selvege.


As with modern machine weaving the individual yarns are very fine. Far finer than capable of being used in hand weaving. Average yarns per inch is determined by the individual weaver and their equipment. Some weavers vary the weight of the fabric by increasing the number of threads per inch and some weavers do it by increasing the diameter of the yarns. The average yarns per inch can vary from 65 for some of the lighter weight fabric to 85 for some of the heavier weights.

One of the looms at Lochcarron in Selkirk Scotland.




On of the looms at Marton Mills in Otley showing a Fringed Selvedge.


On of the looms at Fraser & Kirkbright in Vancouver, BC Canada. This is 100% Australian Merino Wool.



Tartans are woven with specific thread counts which are published when the Tartan is designed. The average size of one repeat of the pattern or what we call the Sett is between 5 and 7 inches. This size gives a good pleat depth and a pleasing appearance to the finished Kilt.

The primary part of the cost of a good Wool Kilt today is not the Kilt makers labor charge. It is the cost of the fabric. On average, Kilts are made from fabric which weighs between 13oz. and 16oz. per fabric yard (60" wide by 36" long).
These fabrics usually retail for between $48.00 and $68.00 per fabric yard,
With a standard 8 yard knife pleated Kilt using 4 yards of double width fabric.

On average in N. America today, Kilt makers charge approx. $250.00 to $400.00 for their labor. A hand sewn 8 yard Kilt requires between 20 and 40 man-hours of labor. You can calculate the hourly rate.

I hope this helps.