Boiled wool

[piperdbh]

brass

The yellow in the metal will pick up the yellow in the green.

[The Wizard of BC]

Here are the definitions of the three words "Felting" "Fulling" and "Boiling".

Felting is in essence the characteristic nature of animal hair, wool, fur etc. by using heat to open the scales of the fibers and then agitation of some kind to shrink and compact the fibers depending on the use of the finished product.

all three of these processes use this same charactaristic of "Felting".

Felt - The word is usually said to come from the Old High German word 'filz' used in the 12th century.
Felt is the name for the fabric itself.
This is where animal fibers that have possibly been dyed but not spun or woven are treated with heat to open the scales of the 'hairs' and then agitated, rolled, hammered or otherwise compressed together. This forms the material we know of as felt.
This is how quality Stetson beaver Felt hats are made. A hard, dense, Felt hat will hold water and retain it's shape for years. (it is also a similar process to making dreadlocks) Mongolian Yurts are made of Felt.

Fulling - From the Medieval Latin word 'fullare' meaning to walk or trample.
This is a process that usually starts with the knit or woven articles of clothing.
Fulling is a way of cleaning the item along with felting it. In the Middle Ages Fulling was done in large vats of hot urine and literally walked on. Then "Fullers Earth" a chalky, fine dust was added to absorb the grease and oils. This produced a garment that has very little of the oil, grease and dirt found in natural wool without removing all the Lanolin. Fulling produces a garment that is very light, very soft and not itchy. Old style wool underwear was Fulled as were some Leine. Linsey/Woolsey cloth was often Fulled.

Boiling - This process is most famous from the Alpine region of Austria and Switzerland but is also widely used in S. America.
Boiled Wool is the name for the fabric.
Instead of loose fibers for Felt or made up garments like Fulling, Boiling is done on large quantities of knit or woven fabric before it is fashioned into garments. This produces a fabric that is of consistent thickness and finish. Tyrolian jackets are made from Boiled fabrics. I remember a pair of boots made from Boiled Wool that my Grandfather had. In the snow they were better than any leather or plastic boots available. Hudson's Bay Blankets used to be of the finest Boiled Wool and they still claim to use it but it's not the same now.

[Mark E.]

Yup, that's about what I am familier with. A number of years back, we had swatches of redcoat wool, boiled, mounted to burlap bags stuffed with straw-for bayonet and sword drills. Let me tell you, it is TOUGH stuff. Warm, too, according to the traditional Lobsterbacks I have encountered. Figured since a lot of what I do in a kilt is either outside, or in an area where primary heat is a wood fire waaaay over there...I needed all of those qualities. That, and it can be found in yards, instead of premade articles. Was wondering if anyone here had ever used it, and would recommend a source...Never purchased the stuff, myself-but what I have seen is rather pricy-I just want quality without a bad taste.

Funny you should mention...I have a Hudson Bay blanket, and you know, it really isn't as heavy as the redcoat wool...never really thought of them being of the same process.

[Woodsheal]

That boiled wool looks like lovely stuff, but expensive. More affordable period-correct wools are here (check out the broadcloth and worsteds):

http://www.wmboothdraper.com/

I've never noted leather trimmed button holes, etc. on 18th C. garments, leather-lined pockets, yes - especially for carrying musket balls, flints, etc.

Epaulettes - no. A common method used instead: sew a button on the left shoulder of your coat/jacket. Sew a small fabric loop to the top edge of your plaid at the center. When you belt your plaid on, simply fasten it up using the button and loop. Period images show this method (see below).

Pewter or brass buttons are fine, especially the latter. Brass was used alot in the Highlands....



BTW, regarding the Champion's coat cuff in this pic - normally it would be buttoned or folded up, revealing the shirt cuff beneath. It was a common practice for swordsmen to unbutton their cuffs and turn them down to give better protection to their wrists during sword fights....

[Dale Seago]

Somehow I never noticed before that he appears to be holding a pistol in his left hand, behind the targe.

[Mark E.]

Somehow I never noticed before that he appears to be holding a pistol in his left hand, behind the targe.

Good point. I have never used a targe, but have used a pistol-and two in the same hand are not a good match, I don't think. The wrist on that musket to the left is rather grotesque-too thick.

The button is a good idea-I would probably use a leather strap with a button hole at each end though-my plaid travels, depending on weather...would lend to more versatility, at least.

[Woodsheal]

Good point. I have never used a targe, but have used a pistol-and two in the same hand are not a good match, I don't think. The wrist on that musket to the left is rather grotesque-too thick.

The artist is rendering the distinctively Scottish "heron-butt" fowling piece. I once got to handle an original, and they shoulder and point quite well!