Black Tie Event - Shoe Advice Needed

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Bang on the button there Scott. I think this route of the three button waistcoat with an argyll is a fairly modern(?) innovation and one that I fully approve of.

Jock, believe it or not, the "Dress Argyll" in velvet or barathea enjoyed a popular vogue before the Hitler war. On my list of things I'd like, but will probably never get around to, is a velvet dress Argyll in deep violet, sort of the Highland equivalent of a proper smoking jacket...

[Jock Scot]

Jock, believe it or not, the "Dress Argyll" in velvet or barathea enjoyed a popular vogue before the Hitler war. On my list of things I'd like, but will probably never get around to, is a velvet dress Argyll in deep violet, sort of the Highland equivalent of a proper smoking jacket...

As I say"----a fairly modern innovation---" then!

My Grand father had a velvet one that colour with black cuffs and it looked absolutely fabulous. I think that possibly one needs to be of a certain age to wear a jacket like that? I think I may be about to qualify!

[svc40bt]

I have only attended one function in black tie highland dress, the 2010 Fredericksburg VA Burns Dinner. I wore a black Argyll, three button waistcoat, fold down collar pleated front dress shirt with studs, tartan hose and cap toe oxfords, the only pair of black shoes I currently own. Here is a pic that may help with the waistcoat question.

All three in Argylls, Mael Coluim with five button waistcoat, myself with three button waistcoat, and Ambjack with belt and no waistcoat. Note the shine on those shoes, perhaps not freshly flaked obsidian, but an effort was made.

[Cygnus]

Jock, believe it or not, the "Dress Argyll" in velvet or barathea enjoyed a popular vogue before the Hitler war. On my list of things I'd like, but will probably never get around to, is a velvet dress Argyll in deep violet, sort of the Highland equivalent of a proper smoking jacket...

I realize you don't often post pictures on here, but I would have to see this jacket if you ever have it made! In fact, being one who likes the colour purple, I'd love one for myself someday...

...The list just keeps growing.

[Irish Jack O'Brian]

Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown
On my list of things I'd like, but will probably never get around to, is a velvet dress Argyll in deep violet, sort of the Highland equivalent of a proper smoking jacket...

Aaaahh! Sounds luxurious. Perhaps with a tasseled smoking cap and a pair of these.

("Yes, please, one of the Arturo Fuentes tonight and a wee dram from the amber decanter.")

[artificer]

("Yes, please, one of the Arturo Fuentes tonight and a wee dram from the amber decanter.")

Slippers I could take or leave, but I LOVE a Fuentes "Hemingway" or "Opus X" in my smoking jacket. ESPECIALLY with a dram.

Of course, I rarely wear said smoking jacket anymore, as I haven't smoked cigars in the house since before my wife was pregnant with our son.

Oh well, if I'd only saved said money from insanely expensive smoking jacket, I could have bought the velvet doublet of my choice AND still had money for a bespoke kilt

[Vegan Scot]

Having no idea about formal footwear, I Googled "men's formal pumps" and came up with this syntax-ical gem

Good advice though, and seems to be in line with what others have said so far.

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Do not the Manolo get started on the disgraceful state of the modern American formal wear! If the Manolo sees one more pastel ruffle shirt, or the brightly-colored plaid cumberbund and matching bowtie set he will hurl. Especially do not mention the shoes! Ayyyyy! The shoes, the shoes! Such horrors.

Ideally, there is only one type of the shoe that the man should wear with the black or the white tie, it is the opera pump: the low black patent leather slipper with the discreet black gros grain bow (pinched or straight).



This shoe, it is the final, unchanged remenant of the 19th century formal wear, the only item still sometimes worn, that would have been worn by the gentleman who was to be received at the royal court 150 of the years ago.

Such the gentleman he would have appeared in the knee breeches with the silk stockings. Today, the knee breeches they are gone, the cut of the coat it has changed, the neck tie it is different, but the formal shoes, they are the same. And so these they are the original “court shoes”. (The word “pump” for the shoes, it is thus the derivative of the word “pomp”.)

In the general, the American men, when they can be wrestled into the formal wear, do not wear the opera pump, mostly because they believe it to be too sissified for the mucho macho man to wear. In such cases, the plain toe, patent leather or highly shined calf blucher or oxford, it is the most appropriate and suitable substitute.

Any other option, it is ridiculous.

[JerseyLawyer]

Do not the Manolo get started on the disgraceful state of the modern American formal wear! If the Manolo sees one more pastel ruffle shirt, or the brightly-colored plaid cumberbund and matching bowtie set he will hurl. Especially do not mention the shoes! Ayyyyy! The shoes, the shoes! Such horrors.

Somewhat off topic, but lo on twenty or more years ago now, the band that I played with had as its formal outfit (get ready for this...) - Regulation doublet, white shirt, frilled white shirt front edged in green, bow tie, cummerbund, fly plaid, kilt, tartan hose, and shoes with shoe buckle flaps. Oh, and balmoral with white cockade.

They made the decision subsequently to eliminate the tartan hose and shoe buckles, but it took a good ten years or so to completely eliminate the "dress" uniform.

And allow me to add that eliminating the tartan hose and shoe buckles to wear instead off-white hose and ghillie brogues did not do the look any favors.

[CMcG]

A better explanation of why formal shoes are a certain way has more to do with tradition and appearance than dancing; saying shoes should be smooth and elegant for dancing because people should be dancing smoothly and elegantly is a rather circular argument. Besides, not everyone dances.

If it really was all about dancing, people would be wearing something tailor made to the style of music and dance, which in some cases might be something more athletic than formal. Sorry wildrover, but several of the styles you listed are anything but smooth and elegant. And if one has that much trouble moving around or avoiding their partners feet because of dress shoes with a bit more cushion and grip, then they probably need exercise and dance lessons.

I don't buy the proposition that one can't dance properly in a chunkier shoe. I've done it and I've observed plenty of people doing the same. It does make perfect sense, however, that THCD has a well established look and that a lighter, more refined shoe is the correct choice for black tie formal attire.