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  1. #11
    MacBean is offline Oops, it seems this member needs to update their email address
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    Quote Originally Posted by hylander View Post
    Care to share your find?
    I'm curious about this too. I did search for "brass turnings balls caps knobs and finials" and came up with some similar, but not this one. What about this? http://www.libertybrass.com/

    I do agree that the slide mechanism may be nicer than a pull or push (and that one doesn't want much of a knob for this or else it may catch and release accidentally).
    Last edited by MacBean; 28th September 10 at 12:07 PM.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacBean View Post
    I'm curious about this too. I did search for "brass turnings balls caps knobs and finials" and came up with some similar, but not this one. What about this? http://www.libertybrass.com/

    I do agree that the slide mechanism may be nicer than a pull or push (and that one doesn't want much of a knob for this or else it may catch and release accidentally).
    That's the right one, they're all there. I just collaged the images from various offerings into one image for ease of viewing, to eliminate the extraneous things, and to compress the scale a bit. It also aids me in sketching to have them all in one place.

  3. #13
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    Here's a set of horse hair tassels I've just sent out.

    These were commissioned.

    The little ring riding right at the top of the bell is to prevent the chain sliding out of position during shipping, and is removed once the tassels are installed in the sporran.

    In the near future I hope to start making the bells from brass, nickel, and cast pewter (ornate Victorian style).

    I'm still experimenting with various sizes of bells, as well as patterns for the bottom edges of the bells and pinked leather trims that rest between the metal and horse hair.

    This project gets more and more intricate every time I do something..

  4. #14
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    This just get better and better

  5. #15
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    A quick materials update:

    It's well known among those who work leather that black dye is something of a frustration.
    Surface dyes (paints) are unpleasant, as when scratched they reveal the tan base colour underneath.

    Spirit dyes (alcohol based) give some penetration, but can yield an uneven finish, can 'blue', and sometimes needs a pre-dye to give you a nice rich colour.

    Oil dyes are messy and have some VOC issues, but have, until now yielded the best result I could find.

    All of that changed this morning...

    For the last few weeks I've been prepping a batch of Vinegaroon. It's a VERY old, traditional way to dye leather black.

    To prepare the solution you first take a quart of vinegar and heat it to near boiling. Then in go a given amount of iron filings (alternately, steel wool). The stuff is left to sit until the iron is dissolved into the vinegar. As this happens, the solution darkens in colour to near black.

    Should anyone attempt this at home, make sure to NOT seal the cap on your jar tightly, as some gasses are generated during the chemical process, and containers have been known to 'pop' from the pressure built up.

    When finished and applied to veg tanned leather, the solution reacts to the tannins in the hide that were used to tan and stabilize it. The result is nearly instantaneous and quite amazing.

    My solution was finally ready this morning, and I gave it a test on some veg tanned scraps I had about. As soon as the solution touched the surface, a bloom of nice dark black appeared. I swabbed the whole piece and within seconds it was jet black.

    After the piece is blackened, you give it a dip in water and baking soda to stop any further acidic reaction.

    It's AMAZING that more people don't use this method of dyeing! There's no cleanup, nothing toxic, and the colour is at least as good as I can get from oil dye, while yielding a more historic, authentic result.

    As a bonus, the colour can penetrate as deeply as you wish- struck through entirely, if you soak the pieces in your vinegaroon.

    I cannot be more excited about this result, all the better that it's an historically accurate way to dye black, which will look fantastic on the cantles of the horsehair sporrans.

  6. #16
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    HaHA! That's brilliant! Nicely done, Scott!

    Can't wait to see how these things come together, and the effect of this interesting coloring process.
    Last edited by Ryan Ross; 5th October 10 at 08:01 AM.

  7. #17
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    I've used that "dye" in my early attempts at sheath making. You get a grey based black (vs blue of commercial dyes) that can be light some times but always a black.

    Main problem I had with it was the smell. Once the mix cures it has a nasty smell and it takes a while for it to fade from the leather. BTW you can also just soak steel wool in vinegar for the same results.

    Another good old fashion dye is walnut husks. If you google it you will get a couple good recipes for a very nice brown dye.

    Jim

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drac View Post
    I've used that "dye" in my early attempts at sheath making. You get a grey based black (vs blue of commercial dyes) that can be light some times but always a black.

    Main problem I had with it was the smell. Once the mix cures it has a nasty smell and it takes a while for it to fade from the leather. BTW you can also just soak steel wool in vinegar for the same results.

    Another good old fashion dye is walnut husks. If you google it you will get a couple good recipes for a very nice brown dye.

    Jim
    Hi Jim, I don't know if you tried this, but the intensity of the black can actually be boosted by giving your leather a dunk in strong black tea (thereby increasing the tannins).

    The smell is strange. It's an odd chemical smell, heavily tinged with iron. In someways reminiscent of a LOT of blood being exposed to the air.

    Heating the vinegar just speeds the reaction along for those of us who live in cooler climates

    And good call on the walnut husks, I'm actually starting some experiments on that right now (since the nuts are coming off the trees up here already) looking for a nice historic brown dye.

  9. #19
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    FYIW, it also works on oak and other tannin-bearing woods. The monastery I used to live is mostly furnished in furniture they made of their local oak stained black in this manner. For woods that don't have enough tannin, they will sometimes pre-treat the wood with a tannin tea and then the vinegar/iron filings (or steel wool) mixture.

    The photo on the opening page here is an example: http://www.sjawood.org/

  10. #20
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    If I remember correctly it is a greenish brown.

    Jim

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