Tuxedo Shirts

[Zardoz]

The first time I was putting together a 'formal' outfit, I came across this advice on the STA website;

" Shirt. You should wear a white plain style collar-attached with either a button or cuff link style cuffs. Keep it simple - no pleats at all or colour trimmings. "

That suited me fine because I perfer the plain front, but finding a reasonably priced, 'plain front' wing collar shirt locally was harder in practice than I thought, but I eventually found some at a tux rental outlet (Al's Formalwear) for about $25 new, $12 ex-hire.
I later found the tall collar 'Victorian' or 'swept wing' shirt at several UK venders like the one here; http://www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk...irt-p-398.html

I like the look of the taller swept collar over the regular wingtip, which always looks like a band collar with little triangles sewn on to me.

[Cygnus]

I've always gone with the following:

Black Tie: turn-down collar, plain, marcella, or pleated front, French cuffs with either double or single cuff links
White Tie: wing collar (detachable), stiff front (though Marcella will do in a pinch), barrel cuffs with boiled-front shirt - French cuffs with the Marcella, with double cuff links in either kind of cuff.

In both cases buttons shouldn't show - they should be covered or you should use studs (black for black tie, mother-of-pearl for white, or silver or gold for either).

I should mention that this isn't for kilted attire, though I imagine the conventions would be similar.

[longhuntr74]

Hey...it's what I know!

For black tie: Turn down collar, pleated front, gold studs (but you could also choose gold and onyx, etc), french cuff

For white tie: Wing collar, stiff front, mother of pearl studs, barrel cuffs.

[Jack Daw]

I go to a couple of blacktie-and-kilt events each year. I like to wear a turn-down collar shirt with a pleated front and french cuffs that requires studs and cuff links.

[Pyper]

For me, it seems like the idea is to be different from a plain white shirt.

So I like wing collar, studs, pleats, and cuff links.

But you have to get it laundered. Forget about trying to iron pleats!

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Generally speaking I prefer what's called a PoW shirt with black tie. This style of formal shirt (fold over collar, studs, cuff links) was popularized in the 1930s by the then Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII and later still HRH The Duke of Windsor). If the invitation says "Black Tie- decorations" then I go with a stiff shirt front, otherwise I prefer the softer look of "Swiss pleats"-- the narrower (usually ten on a side) the better.

My formal shirts used to be made by New and Lingwood on Jermyn Street, although I now use Eade & Ravenscroft as it is easier to order from them now that I live in the United States. All of my shirts have detachable collars which means that a stiff front shirt can be worn with either black or white tie simply by choosing the correct collar.

Studs, I believe, should be discrete-- nothing larger than about 5mm-- and I would suggest black with black tie and gold with white tie. Simple cuff links in gold are the most appropriate for formal attire.

[longhuntr74]

Thank you, Scott, for the recommendation. I really like E&R's goods upon browsing their site. Their cummerbund (I know many hate them...it's a requirement for my Army mess uniform) is quite different and more "finished" than almost every other one I've looked at before. I'm seriously considering ordering one and a matching bow tie. I also like the fact that they offer plain lozenge type gold cuff links and studs...also a requirement for my mess uniform. I've been through two sets of the cheaply made ones they offer for sale in the uniform shop.

Anybody else have recommendations for a source of plain gold (probably plated) cuff links and studs stateside?? Also cummerbund and bow tie??

[JerseyLawyer]

Anybody else have recommendations for a source of plain gold (probably plated) cuff links and studs stateside?? Also cummerbund and bow tie??

Any local menswear shop that sells or rents tuxedos, probably. Mens Wearhouse, for example. If you're looking for something better, you could try someplace like Brooks Brothers or Jos. A. Bank. If you're looking for really nice, I'd suggest an antique set. They go nicely into the antique stud box you picked up at the Paris Flea Market, etc.

As for a bow tie and cummerbund - I have quite the neck, so I needed one in a custom length, and got one from Beau Ties in Vermont. I tie my own, and I would suggest you do the same. If you're a standard size, again, any of the places I just mentioned would have it, and you can probably walk in and pick one up. None of the things you're looking for are hard to find, fortunately.

[Riverkilt]

I found the best deal (price and quality) at military supply outlets on line.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

If you look around you can usually find sets of studs at your local antique mall-- expect to pay $10-$35 for a nice set of 1930's black studs, often with matching cuff links. Swank was the biggest manufacturer, and theirs are exceptionally well made. Gold studs are another matter-- I have a nicely engraved pair worn by my grandfather on his wedding day in 1910-- I usually wear the "gold" studs I bought at Marlow White, or a set of "Hester's" studs (Hester was the Mother of Pearl in "The Scarlet Letter"), with white tie.

Again, simple gold cuff links from the 20's and 30's can be found at you local antique mall. Look for the words "Gold Filled" and expect to pay about $20 for a nice pair. My cuff links don't match. One is from West Point, the other from Annapolis, mementos of friends who gave that last full measure of devotion.