How to find sett size on mill websites?

[The Wizard of BC]

Hi Tess,

I have some numbers for you.

According to the design lady, Lauren, at Marton Mills the number of yarns or 'ends' per centimeter are.

Jura 14.57 ends per cm
Bute 17.5 ends per cm
Balmoral is 26 ends per cm.

To determine the Sett Size you first must know the thread count. Or how many individual yarns it would take to create one Full repeat of the Sett.

For example the Victoria, City of Gardens Tartan which I designed contains 326 yarns in a full Sett. This results in a Sett Size of 7.5" when woven in 16oz. Jura from Marton Mills.

There is a small 'fudge factor'. Weavers can adjust the thread count to increase or decrease the size of the Sett if needed. I asked for a Sett Size of 7.5" so I would not only have ample depth to knife pleats but would have a perfect 2.5" box-pleat.

Also the numbers you ask about, glm and gsm? These refer to the weight of the fabric. They stand for grams per linear meter and grams per square meter.

Jura weight fabric is listed as 58'-59" wide one fabric yard is a piece 59" x 36" or in metric, 1.49.9cm x 91.5cm.

59" x 36" = 2124 square in. or 13703 square cm.

Jura listed also listed at 500gsm which translates to 16oz/yard.

I hope this helps.