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15th December 10, 03:34 PM
#1
Driving a bargain
Here's my take. If you can afford truly bespoke garments, go for it. With a bespoke garment you are able to dictate everything from fabric and fit (a tad more room on the left side to accommodate my revolver, if you please) to colour and buttons (mauve lapels and, oh yes, elk tooth buttons, thank you very much). Ultimately you end up with a one of a kind, custom garment exactly the way you want it. But exclusivity comes at a price.
And that's the key phrase: At A Price.
My Scottish tailor, Stewart Christie (in Edinburgh), currently charge around 1000 pounds (about $1600) for a bespoke regulation doublet. In contrast MacKenzie Frain (also in Scotland) can supply an excellent made to measure regulation doublet for around 400 pounds (about $600-- see my review). Moving down the scale further, many on-line vendors offer regulation doublets "off the peg" for something in the neighborhood of 300 pounds (just a bit under $500).
Why, one might reasonably ask, the vast difference in price, and is the expensive, totally bespoke doublet really worth the money? I'm glad you asked.
Until 1966 it was possible to purchase a Rolls-Royce or a Bentley from the showrooms of the Murray Motor Car Company in Edinburgh. The cars on offer would be the "standard" models as offered by The Company (as Rolls-Royce was referred to in those days). In effect you were buying an "off the peg" Rolls-Royce. But suppose you wanted a higher seat, the steering wheel lower, and the pedals closer. In that instance a salesman took your order, sent it off to the factory, and in a couple of months your car was delivered. More personalized than a standard car, you were now the proud owner of a "made to measure" Rolls-Royce. Sometimes neither the "off the peg" car nor the "made to measure car" lived up to your expectations or requirements. In that case you were introduced to a firm of coach builders who, like bespoke tailors, would custom build a body for your Rolls-Royce to your exact specifications. Obviously each step away from the standard car added to the cost, with the biggest jump being the gap between made to measure and bespoke.
But is it worth it? Well, yes and no.
The vast majority of people on the planet are perfectly satisfied with off the peg "everythings", kilt jackets and Rolls-Royce motor cars included. And, if you fall into this camp then it behooves you to shop very carefully-- you don't want to spend Rolls-Royce money for a Plymouth. If, on the other hand, you want your feet to reach the pedals and your sleeves to stop at your wrist, then made to measure is the very best way to go.
Which brings us to the bespoke kilt jacket. On purely economic grounds it really is hard to justify the cost; but as a sybaritic indulgence, it is right up there with a custom-bodied Rolls-Royce. Like Max Bialystok said, "If ya got it, flaunt it!"
In my opinion the made to measure jacket is, without a doubt, the bargain of the century (admittedly the century is only ten years old). For very little more than the cost of an off the peg jacket one has nearly all of the virtues of bespoke tailoring, but without the sporran-shattering price tag.
Last edited by MacMillan of Rathdown; 3rd January 11 at 06:40 PM.
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