US Army Blues Jacket to Doublet Conversion

**longhuntr74** · 3rd June 11, 11:39 PM

Hello fellow Xmarkers. I recently found myself with an extra uniform jacket that I would never wear again and realized that I could probably create something like a Balmoral Doublet with it. I have embarked upon my journey and am starting to realize why doublets cost $600-1000 and higher. Of course, as is the case with many renovation projects, it is frequently harder to remodel than it would be to make something from scratch...but I really didn't want to get into making lapels and shaping the chest, etc...so in this case, I think there's a benefit to using a previously constructed jacket as a starting garment.

I've invested about $25 in materials so far (still need to buy some grosgrain silk and buttons). My time investment...well...we won't talk about the amount of time it took to cut and then rip all those stitches and press everything flat as I selvedge fabric for reconstruction...but the tashes have proven more time consuming than I had anticipated. I'm very happy with how my first one has turned out though, so I'm driving forward.

Here's the facing of my first skirt flap showing the basting that I'm using to install cording as trim.

Here's one section of cording blind stiched and the remaining two basted.

A view of the flap from the back side...showing Hymo stitched to facing and blind stitch along the right hand side.

Completed front section of first tash, minus buttons

And finally...my first completed set of tashes...only three more to go!!

Check back in from time to time...I'll try to update this thread as I continue to make progress on my project.

**madmacs** · 4th June 11, 04:56 AM

Looks good, are you planning on posting a template for them?

**artificer** · 4th June 11, 05:11 AM

Man, I can't wait to see this take shape, the tash looks great. What a nice teaser for the project.

You're a braver man than I- When fabric and I get together, TERRIBLE things happen.

**longhuntr74** · 4th June 11, 08:18 AM

Originally Posted by madmacs

Looks good, are you planning on posting a template for them?

Hmmm...a template is problematic. I guess I could try to draw out my patterns that I cut out of cardboard and then add some measurements. The measurements will vary based on your waist, etc. The outer flap on these is 7.5" wide x 5.75" tall (finished vertical and horizontal measurements...not on the angle). The inner flap is 8" wide x 6.25" tall. The cant on the flap is 15degrees off the vertical (75 degrees from the top edge). The inner flap (larger one) uses that same 15 degrees, but I tapered them in about 1/8" on each side because I wanted the bottom of the flap to be slightly wider than the top...so it's 8" at the top edge and about 8.25" wide at the bottom.

Originally Posted by artificer

Man, I can't wait to see this take shape, the tash looks great. What a nice teaser for the project.

You're a braver man than I- When fabric and I get together, TERRIBLE things happen.

Scott...Fabric and I have the same relationship as you and leather! And I'm putting to use some of the tailoring skills that I've learned over the past few months through my online research.

**Homer** · 4th June 11, 09:15 AM

That looks to be shaping up wonderfully and its sure to look magnificent once completed.

**longhuntr74** · 4th June 11, 10:17 AM

For those unfamiliar with what a Balmoral Doublet is (and since names vary so widely from maker to maker), I'm talking about a jacket designed by Highland Clans (ostensibly a copy of a jacket the HRH, the Prince of Wales, Duke of Rothesay wears). Here is an image of it:

Found at: Highland Clans Balmoral Doublet

This version is made from velvet. Mine will be blue wool with a black velvet collar. I like the shape of my flaps better than this example. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to be putting Argyll-style button cuffs on my jacket vs. the flap style seen here. Cuffs and lapels will be faced in grosgrain silk most likely...still trying to decide on a color (black, red?). My kilt is bottle green (US Army Tartan)...I know that many think red will look fine with anything...for some reason it seems the only color that doesn't look good with my kilt in my eyes. I don't even wear red flashes with that kilt when I wear it...opting instead for light blue or navy blue typically. I think purple might look nice, but some have indicated this is a rather unusual color choice. Feel free to offer your thoughts on facing colors.

Here's a new pic of the center back flaps. I "re-purposed" the front breast pockets (pleated patch pockets) for these. Regular doublets typically have unadorned flaps...I thought the pleats added a little something extra and I like the end result.

**Kiltboy** · 5th June 11, 07:20 AM

Oh my!

What beautiful, even stitching.

I'm jealous.

**CMcG** · 5th June 11, 07:37 AM

This is quite an ambitious project but it appears that longhuntr74 has the skills to pay the bills! I will watch this thread eagerly to see how it turns out

Can we see a picture of the original, unmodified jacket itself?

**longhuntr74** · 5th June 11, 01:53 PM

Originally Posted by CMcG

This is quite an ambitious project but it appears that longhuntr74 has the skills to pay the bills! I will watch this thread eagerly to see how it turns out

Can we see a picture of the original, unmodified jacket itself?

Here's a picture of an officer's Army Service Uniform jacket. The reason I specified "officer's" is that the enlisted variant has epaulettes edged in gold piping on the shoulders, whereas the officer's version does not. The shoulders of the jacket will be unadorned and I've already removed the gold and colored braid around the sleeves. I've also removed the breast pockets (they became the back flaps) and the jacket is cropped all the way around at the very top of the lower pocket flaps.