THCD Photo Examples

[JSFMACLJR]

i have two questions about these.

1.2. how common would the type of dress in the second picture be now? particularly the plaids and belts

Swords and plaids aren't worn very often today. They certainly could be worn by a bridegroom (as in the case of the photo ) today, and are required by Highland gentlemen in court dress. Perhaps at the next coronation?

At the "better" Highland balls, one still sees the occasional full plaid or two, but not very often.

Everything else in the photo is acceptable today, although dirks are falling out of favour.

[SlackerDrummer]

Everything else in the photo is acceptable today, although dirks are falling out of favour.

Though some on this forum will insist that ghillie brogues are gauche.

[southpacifickilt]

Evening Dress:

so is this an evening wedding? and who's?

are the butons on these doublets badges also?(they seem to be stars and thisles)

it just wouldn't be done for me to have buttons made up as salmon. If Lord Lyon saw fit to grant me a badge of a salmon naiant, then I might consider salmon buttons, but I still would be reluctant to wear them in certain places.

thanks , i ask because it seems that what makes (or brakes) TCHD is ones decision to do (or not do) “the done thing”

Though some on this forum will insist that ghillie brogues are gauche.

if they have buckles and different colour laces they seem to be more commonly accepted. not sure why though ... it shows thought? research? idk

a couple of pictures (so as not to completely hijack the thread )-

[JSFMACLJR]

Though some on this forum will insist that ghillie brogues are gauche.

But NB that the shoes are buckled!

[saxandpipes]

But NB that the shoes are buckled!

Agreed!

I don't think I would fault how these two are dressed. I wish I could pull this off!

Cheers,

Michael

edit:

Does anyone know where one can find buckles to add to standard ghillie-brogues, or is it only possible to buy them already like this... in which case, where do you find them?! Do they have a particular name? (I've tried searching "buckle ghillie-brogues" with no luck).

Cheers,

M.

[SlackerDrummer]

But NB that the shoes are buckled!

In the absence of a higher resolution photo I cannot say for sure (and I certainly stand to be corrected), but it looks like only the gent on the left has buckles. I don't see any on the other gent's shoes.

And as an aside, how can buckled ghillie brogues be acceptable for formal attire, but non-buckled ones then be completely dismissed for daywear? Just out of curiosity.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

In the absence of a higher resolution photo I cannot say for sure (and I certainly stand to be corrected), but it looks like only the gent on the left has buckles. I don't see any on the other gent's shoes.

And as an aside, how can buckled ghillie brogues be acceptable for formal attire, but non-buckled ones then be completely dismissed for daywear? Just out of curiosity.

In answer to your question there are several factors that need to be considered. The first is totally non-PC and has to do with the status of a person. Historically, buckle shoes, especially those with ornate or valuable buckles, indicated both wealth and social standing. The poor went barefoot, or wore only the most basic sort of footwear; those slightly better off actually had proper shoes, but not necessarily with buckles. Laces would have been far more common. Moving up the socio-economic scale shoes would have been the norm, and more than likely with buckles of brass-- not cut steel or silver, which would have been worn only by the wealthy. Because today shoes with buckles cost more than shoes with laces, buckled shoes may still be considered an indicator of wealth or social status (the two often going hand in hand).

Another consideration is the construction of the shoe, itself. Because these days buckled shoes are regarded as formal shoes, they tend to be made less robust than shoes intended to be worn in ordinary circumstances. Look at it this way-- black shoes are worn with a tuxedo. All things being equal, regarding formal attire, a pair of black Doc Martens aren't as appropriate as a pair of black Bally patent leather slip-ons. The same applies to Highland attire. Like it or not, ghillie brogues are a heavy duty shoe, which is fine for outdoors, tromping around at your local Highland games, but wholly unsuited to those formal occasions where "dress shoes" are socially required.

If one placed a new pair of ghillie brogues next to those worn in the photograph of the Hamilton wedding, one would immediately see the difference-- compared to Hamilton's shoes the new ghillie brogues would look like a farmer's clod hoppers; which brings us back to the Bally's vs. Doc's comparison...

...and the real answer to your question.

Ghille brogues are a shoe that is best considered as a shoe suitable for wear in other than formal settings, in the same way that buckled dress brogues (whether with straps or laces) are, like Prince Charlie coatees, totally inappropriate outside of a formal setting. It's not a matter of dismissing the ghillie brogue except as a day wear shoe, but rather understanding that despite its popularity (just like Doc Martens) it doesn't "fit in" as formal footwear.

[davidlpope]

And as an aside, how can buckled ghillie brogues be acceptable for formal attire, but non-buckled ones then be completely dismissed for daywear? Just out of curiosity.

I think it really boils down by "what is done" by those "in the know". What I consistently see in photos is that Scots who look sharp and natural in their THCD usually* wear black full brogues instead of "ghillie brogues" for daywear. Likewise this same group of folks (those who grew up wearing THCD, vice those of us in the US who had to "learn it") usually* wear either bar buckle brogues or buckle pumps for evening attire.

On the other hand, most Americans who are "fully kitted up" at their local Highland games will usually be wearing "ghillie brogues" along with their white hose, tartan ties, tartan hose flashes, and military-inspired short-sleeve shirts (sporting decorations, and sometimes matching tartan epaulets!) for daywear. "Ghillie brogues" seem to be the norm for American evening wear, as well.

Given these two examples of Highland dress, I'd prefer to do as the former...

Below is a photo example of what I am describing, in an evening dress context. Any confusion as to who grew up wearing THCD? (Don't let the white rabbit sporran, white PC, ghillie brogues, white hose, or ruche tie throw you...)





*This is generally the case. I know that one can find photos of Argyll wearing "ghillie brogues" in the daytime, etc., but that doesn't really change what the "norm" is...

[SlackerDrummer]

MoR, I think you missed the point of my question, but I probably didn't phrase it very well. I'm already in the convinced column regarding ghillie brogues not being worn with formal attire. I'm wondering why the variety seen today are dismissed as appropriate shoes by some for daywear since they are in fact country shoes of a sort.

[saxandpipes]

I understand where you're coming from- they're considered "too formal" for daywear, yet "not formal enough" for evening wear. I believe the general consensus amongst those in-the-know here on the forum is that ghillie-brogues are just not the best shoe for (traditional) highland wear, evening, or day.

I know this doesn't help... but I understand why you (and many of us for that matter) are confused.

Cheers,

Michael