Differences in Mills?

[Luckey]

Where else can you go with a question about a specific tartan and get such an in-depth response from an expert such as Matt. I love this forum!

[Don Patrick]

I seem to learn something new everytime I visit the site. I had no idea of this much variance of color in a clan tartan, other than the modern/ancient/hunting/muted issues. ... and I guess I thought the thread count was the basis for a clan tartan.

I think the lesson I learned here, is to purchase all items you need at the same time. Guess I need to try and expand my last order with Matt.

[Gordon]

I can add something to this topic as we are the 'mystery mill' who wove the swatch on the right. In fact we have made it a few times for the clan.
It was made in 12 oz weight to clan specified colours, and thread count, and to answer Matts question...it is Midnight Navy (not black) in ours.
It would seem that when Strathmore reproduced it, they used whatever stock colours they had rather than dye to match...which is perfectly understandable, we do it all the time.
This applies to all tartans...some weaving mills have their own dyeing whereas others buy ready dyed yarn from various sources, therefore there can be significant difference in competing mills versions of a particular tartan.

Gordon
Fraser & Kirkbright Weaving

[way2fractious]

This is a fascinating subject. It shows how the practicalities of business make minor adjustments to the theoretical practices to produce the wide variations, even uniqueness, in the world of fabrics.

Even more amazing in this particular discussion is the gathering of the original players - that is, Gordon wove the other sample. That also happened when he saw one of my kilts made from tartan of unknown origin - again, unknown until he saw it and pointed out some of the manufacturing elements that identified it as woven by F & K.

This forum is indeed a "gathering" place.

[davedove]

I think the lesson I learned here, is to purchase all items you need at the same time. Guess I need to try and expand my last order with Matt.

If you need items to match completely, such as a kilt and fly plaid, it's probably best to get them all at once, from the same run of cloth. Even different runs from the same mill can have minor variations in color.

[Captain]

I had no idea any of the mills were on this forum. Thanks for the input Gordon, that certainly cleared up some questions. I personally like the one from Strathmore, but my wife loves the baby blue that Gordan and those at F&K wove. So the question is, Gordon, what would it cost to get three meters/yards of that in double width cloth (or I guess six in single width) if my wife ever decides to get herself a kilted skirt? Also, if kilted skirts take less fabric than a kilt, someone correct me now!

[Gordon]

Captain,

sorry, we would not be able to supply 3-6 metres, as we have a 30 metre minimum for custom tartans.
also (more importantly) I am led to believe (by the clan chief) that this is a restricted tartan and that you are required to buy it through the clan association.

Gordon

[way2fractious]

Also, if kilted skirts take less fabric than a kilt, someone correct me now!

The commercially made kilted skirts I've seen are 1) the lighter weight material, 2) the pleats are larger (wider) than a knife pleated kilt, and 3) the pleats are shallower, usually such that they do not overlap each other. Therefore, they are not pleated to a stripe or to the sett.

A custom made kilted skirt, however, can be constructed to the desires of the maker or the commissioner.

[Alan H]

Not much to add, but I really enjoyed this thread and learned a lot from it.

[Peter C.]

A very interesting thread. You can imagine how the tartans would have varied when the wool was died with natural dyes in small quantities.

Interesting that this is meant to be a restricted tartan yet Strathmore mill is weaving it and selling it.

Peter