Box or Knife pleats

**MacWage** · 22nd August 07, 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by pdcorlis

Box pleats are unique but Knife pleats Ssssssswwwwiiiiiiisssssshhhhh - box pleats don't...

From what I've been TOLD . . .
The box pleats look more like a "bell" than a "swish."
I can't really say, as I can't see my own rump as I walk.

As for weight, 16 work best. It feels REALLY "right."
My ONLY 13 oz box pleats are F&K material in Caledonia and X Marks tartans. For SOME reason, F&K material "works" different than other brands. It "functions" like a lighter worsted than it actually is. It is merino wool, which MIGHT have to do with it, BUT I really don't know why. The F&K 13 oz is the LIGHTEST I would recommend.
Other mills work "better," but 16 works best in the balance of availability of tartans/price/etc.
On my list of "things to make" is an 18 oz Gordon tartan material I got off Turpin. I am LOOKING FORWARD to that one for this winter.

(My "feelings" are the same as Matt.)

**Tattoo Bradley** · 22nd August 07, 07:20 AM

Hands down; 16 oz. is the absolute BEST cloth for a 4 yard box pleated kilt. There is no question about it.

13 oz. is suitable as well. But, when you hack off half the yardage, the 16 oz. just feels right. The only 13 oz. kilt I have is an 8 yarder and I can tell if it were a 4 yard box pleat, it wouldn't have the presence my 16 oz. box pleat has.

**Rampant Lion** · 22nd August 07, 07:20 AM

Personally, I like the look of knife-pleats on higher yardage kilts, like a tank. Military box pleats are also kind of neat. On smaller yardage kilts, say 4-5 yards, I really like the look of box pleats.

I have two knife-pleated tanks and love the swoosh of the pleats. However, if I ever have the money to get a third kilt, it'd probably be a 4 yard box pleat.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 22nd August 07, 09:23 AM

To answer a few questions that have come up -- yes, I'll gladly make a solid color, and it doesn't have to be a tweed. Most mills offer some solid color options in either 13 oz or 16 oz. I've done saffron before, for instance. So talk to me about what kind of color you want and I'll see what's available for you.

Which brings up the second question, which weight is best. Hands down, the 16 oz heavy weight is my preferred cloth for a 4 yard box pleated kilt. I use it whenever available. I will also use a medium 13 oz weight, if that is all that is available. It does fine, but not quite as well as 16 oz. I really wouldn't use anything lighter than 13 oz at all.

Matt

**Bryan** · 22nd August 07, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by Rampant Lion

Military box pleats are also kind of neat.

I'm not familiar with those. Do they have a different look than regular box pleats?

**Kid Cossack** · 22nd August 07, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by Bryan

I'm not familiar with those. Do they have a different look than regular box pleats?

More than you're looking for can be found right here:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=27980

**Bryan** · 22nd August 07, 07:30 PM

Originally Posted by Kid Cossack

More than you're looking for can be found right here:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=27980

Thanks, Kid Cossack.

**Ruanaidh** · 22nd August 07, 09:37 PM

This is always handy in visualizing the different types of pleats.

**Alan H** · 22nd August 07, 02:16 PM

Agree'd...box pleats kilts don't swish.

And 16 ounce is the way to go with box pleats, you need the weight. That's the only drawback I can see to the X-Kilt. They're usually made out of lighter material. Knif pleats have that "action"....box pleats don't.

But box pleats look unique and they cost less, and they're rather less labor intensive to make. both are very nice....I have samples of both, and will be acquiring another box pleat after I sew up my next knife-pleat.

**MysticMead** · 23rd August 07, 09:32 AM

Originally Posted by Alan H

Agree'd...box pleats kilts don't swish.

And 16 ounce is the way to go with box pleats, you need the weight. That's the only drawback I can see to the X-Kilt. They're usually made out of lighter material. Knif pleats have that "action"....box pleats don't.

But box pleats look unique and they cost less, and they're rather less labor intensive to make. both are very nice....I have samples of both, and will be acquiring another box pleat after I sew up my next knife-pleat.

I'm becoming a big fan of the box pleats..since my wife made my first box pleated kilt (based off the x-kilt) I have been begging her to make me more.. I do think that given the right material the action can be in a box pleat as well... going to try a nice suede cloth soon (after she finishes a kilt for Demonnic and then my camo hunting kilt).. that should move a bit better than cotton