X-Kilt 2.0 (Beta)

**Pleater** · 13th September 07, 10:47 AM

I wonder if my being ambidexterous in sewing influenced my choice of pleating methods.

I am naturally left handed, but practise most things in either hand, unless there is some mechanical reason not to - scissors are one thing I have to have the left handed option, and I usually write left handed, though often I have something in my right hand so it is easier.

I am thinking of changing the light kilt to something different - perhaps to the sett - it means taking out the stitching, but I'd rather lose what I have done and go on to make a kilt I would wear.

The kilts are 6 yards - the 'right' side is brushed, so I cut it across the fabric and used the inside so the diagonal of the twill weaving runs in the right direction. The brushing makes the fabric thicker than the weight might suggest, and I think I will have to cut out the back of the fell of these kilts, unless some heavy pressing will flatten it down. If it will not I might try a military box pleat with the back cut out, and add more material.

**turpin** · 14th September 07, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by Packhound

I like that "gillie kinguisse". For us lefties you only have to be handicapped for the "wrong" facing pleats. (As opposed to the left facing pleats.)

That was my thought as well.

**dwmoffatt** · 14th September 07, 01:26 PM

Just a thought here as I read the posts but wonder if all of us south-paws must be doing / thinking the same thing???
It started with Packhound but Pleater seemed to fall right in.
I Write left handed (I can still print right handed but that was from the early years of school and the teacher not letting me be a lefty), hunt (bow and rifle) right handed though.
I wonder if the kinguisse was nothing more than a left handed kilt-maker??

F-H.C.A.G. - I'll do my best to get some pictures up over the weekend.

**Pleater** · 14th September 07, 04:35 PM

It might have been a left hander just thinking outside the box, which is something we do tend to do because (I think) we find that we are thrown problems which others just don't experience.

I have one Kinguisse style kilt with the box pleat centre back, made from a fabric with a jungle print - and although the forward facing pleats can be a nuisance it is just the thing for showing off the pattern.

I also find that if the centre inverted pleat of the reverse kinguisse is large enough I do not sweep the pleats to sit down but spread them and sit on the central pleat opened out. Then when I stand up and the pleat closes any creases are hidden.

I do not sew the fell on my kilts now, not in the conventional way anyway. I find that for most fabrics the pleats laying one over the other and properly pressed will keep them in place.

For lightweight fabrics I sometimes sew the pleat horizontally, across the inside fold to encourage it to stay as three layers of fabric rather than expand into single layers.

It might not do for those of the male persuasion, having hips of a different shape, but having started off with conventional knife pleats and supresssion I then tried various experiments until I found my own preferred method of pleating.

**Alan H** · 20th September 07, 06:24 PM

Interesting idea....no shaping/tapering of the pleats, but just angling the apron over the first pleat. My gut reaction is that it's not gonna work....why?

Because people, unless they have, as Barb puts it..."a bit of a corporation"... are relatively flattish in front, but muchly shaped 'round the rumpside. You notice that the vast majority of the tapering in a traditional kilt is done in the pleats, and very little is done in the apron, aside from the A-shaping? There's a reason for that.

However, that's all theory. What counts is when you drape it round your tush.

Pics!

**dwmoffatt** · 22nd September 07, 09:11 AM

Here's the purple plaid starting. Cleaing the rough ends and a hem.

Outside of the box pleats, I still don't like sewing the inside of the box.

Pleats coming together.

Top is added and stiched down.

**dwmoffatt** · 22nd September 07, 09:22 AM

I think Alan might be correct. I've noticed that the kilts are what I was looking for, at the belt waist and a little long.

The biggest downside is squating down. I find a test the limits of the rump. I always joked that I had a flat rear end but I'm finding Alan's quote from Barb may be true of everyone.

I'm looking forward to trying knife pleats at the waist and longer I'm just concerned about the weight.

Any ideas or thoughts by anyone about the weight of tank pleated X kilt????

**Alan H** · 22nd September 07, 06:57 PM

Originally Posted by dwmoffatt

Any ideas or thoughts by anyone about the weight of tank pleated X kilt????

A tank pleated X-Kilt with a full width apron is...very simply, a box pleated traditional kilt. so use 13 or 16 oz material, if you can!

**cacunn** · 24th September 07, 06:18 AM

Pleater
I want to see pictures, this sounds like a great idea.

**Pleater** · 24th September 07, 08:15 AM

I am working on a photo album - these are a couple of the first attempts at using the camera, and I am trying to remember to take photos of important steps in the process on the kilts in progress.

DPM kilt under the apple trees - centre back box pleat open. Fabric is 100% cotton, kilt is worn ironed but without the pleats pressed in.

Latest kilt (wool mix, 8 inch sett, 6yards) after first pressing - centre back box pleat to right of photo, showing as a darker line. The colour is distorted, being too blue.