My latest creation

[BLAZN]

Wow, that looks like really soft leather.

Hows it in use? Hold enough? Any plans to put in specialty pockets inside?

It is really soft leather. In hind sight, I think the leather is a wee too light weight. This is the 4th sporran I have done in that style, and I have yet to pick the perfect weight leather. Two of the 4 are made from 5 ounce suede... looks very nice, but the slightest bit too thick. The other was done in a 4 ounce leather, which is still too thick.

I've got more garment weight leather (sourced from dismantling some thrift store leather skirts) sitting here. There's maybe enough for 3 more sporrans. After those are done, I'm going to shop for some 2.5 ounce leather and try that. I figure it out eventually.
As for any speciialty pockets... I'll try my hand at those as soon as I figure out the leather weight thing.


BTW... I had a thought. Instead of slicking the flap edge on the sporran pictured here, how would it look if I took some dye and did the edge. I have black dye, and I think it would look good.

[cacunn]

Until you have an edge slicker look around the house for a small pulley wheel, a child's toy car/truck wheel with the rubber tread removed, might work. Some thing with a small grove that will round over the edge of the leather.

I like the look and think with use it will develop a great deal of character.

[turpin]

Jim - it's clear you've followed the pattern in Thompson's Appendix in "So You're Going To Wear The Kilt" quite well. I've given some thought myself to a suede side out sporran. I have a couple of suggestions/alternatives to those presented here. All the above critiques I do agree with, just some thoughts.

If you don't have easy access to Gum Tragacanth, a bit of bees wax, or even glycerine soap (saddle soap, Neutragena (don't tell the wife she uses saddle soap, BTW)) work well to slick a raw edge. And make sure to bevel both grain and suede side, natcherly, before slicking. The slicking agent can also be used to burnish the suede side of the flap - apply a thin coat with a damp cloth (except for wax) and then use some sort of flat, smooth edge to apply pressure and smooth over the suede repeatedly until you get the desired effect. A narrow wooden or plastic spatula wood do well.

I avoid the whole issue of raw edges, just as David Freelander does, by covering the suede side with leather, fur, or fabric, wrapping it around to the grain side, and sewing it through along the edge, as in the photo here.



The grain side can be dyed to match or complement the leather beforehand. Wrapping results in a bit more punching and sewing, but results in a really clean look.

One other suggestion: The lightweight leather will sag a lot with your stuff in it. You might try using a larger, more oval-shaped stiffener and flap-base, which will help retain a wider appearance.

I find 3-4 oz (3/64 to 1/16 inch by gauge) works best for the bag. I bought some super supple moose hide early on, but at 5-7 oz it is just too thick to make a good-closing bag. So I'll make moccasin boots instead. eventually.

cheers

[BLAZN]

Turpin... thanks for the insight. I plan on doing at least one sporran with the flap covered by fur or the like.

Do you put your rear stabilizer inside the sporran?

[turpin]

double post.

[turpin]

Turpin... thanks for the insight. I plan on doing at least one sporran with the flap covered by fur or the like.

Do you put your rear stabilizer inside the sporran?

I sew both front and rear stabilizers inside the bag and take the thongs fully through. This makes it easier to replace the thongs when, inevitably, they wear out - like shoelaces do. You can choose to match the thread to the leather for a monochromatic look, or use contrasting thread for a little more visual interest.

I'm thinking of a beaver fur Rob Roy-style sporran (prototype probably in nutria), in which case I'd probably put the front stabilizer outside like you do to avoid constantly pulling fur through the holes - even with eyelets the fur would pull, i think. The stabilizer would be dyed to match and beveled and slicked. Not sure whether in that case I'd use eyelets. If so they'd be a muted color, like antiqued brass, almost black.

BTW, you shoulddye the edge before slicking. It gives it nice, defined look.

[BLAZN]

I've been putting my back stabilizer on the outside. I may have to mimic your pattern and put the rear stabilizer on the inside as well. Sometimes, though, when I make mine for Ren Faire use, I want actual straps for a belt to go through. This allows me to look more period, and allows me to sell them as pouches.