How much tartan for a kilt?

[ChattanCat]

Well, it's not going great just now.

I'm a machinist, not a tailor. That's my first problem!

T.

You will do good with your background. Just use your engineering skills.

[The Wizard of BC]

Ah, a machinist with a question... Then perhaps an Engineer can help with an answer.

First, a disclaimer---I assume because you are using Barb's book that you intend to make a Traditional Style Kilt. You're not going to try to adapt or change anything. If you are,(other than using a VERY light weight fabric)you will just confuse yourself. Barb is the expert here. Follow the book. Follow her instructions and answers she posts here.
I am not a Traditional Style Kiltmaker. Anything I say here does not count if it disagrees with Barb in any way.
But, I probably understand the way your brain works. I understand numbers and measuring.

So, give us the numbers you have so far. We need:
Your Hip measurement,
Waist measurement,
Your Drop,
Your split numbers,
The total amount of fabric you have to work with.
What Tartan your fabric is,
And it can be helpful to know your height and weight.

When you post these we can start.

[turpin]

You have to take into account an extra-deep first and reverse pleat (the reverse pleat is a deep box pleat on the right side), plus enough material to finish the apron edges with a hem at least 1.5-2 inches, and also have enough left for a fringe if you want that. That's what takes up the extra material.

[ChattanCat]

There are two ways to approach pleating. Typically traditional pleats have a 5/8" to 3/4" reveal.
1) If you are limited by length of material, then mark the aprons, one on each end of the material. Then start marking off the pleats until you reach the apron with the appropriate spacing from the last pleat to the apron edge. You can even do this before you rip the material.

2) Use the method in the book. (Chapter 8)

[ChattanCat]

So you have two engineers, and an expert kilt maker helping you. I am a mechanical engineer.

Is your hip less than your waist? If so, you probably want to look in the back of the book for Appendix B, splitting measurements: Person #29 has uses the same measurement for the waist and hips.

Wallace

[ChattanCat]

Ok, Mark the underapron. This is on the other end. Mark the 1/2 hip plus 15 - 17" for the last pleat mark.

Since you are pleating to the stripe, just start marking each pleat. See Option B: Marking pleats to the stripe. Make sure you mark the pleat number. I do it every five pleats and write the number of the pleat with the chalk.

Let us know how many pleats?

[The Wizard of BC]

Even if you plan on having 30 pleats in your kilt it will not use up all 8 yards so my suggestion is the find the center of the fabric and start marking for your pleats outward from there. 15 in each direction. Then add the amount for your deep and reverse pleats, then the aprons, them the facings.

Cut off the excess.

BTW 30 pleats will mean each pleat is .766 wide at the hip and .666 at the waist.

Plunking those numbers into the formula from above means you need:

38" for the outer apron, its facings, and the deep pleat +
183.75" for the pleats +
42" for the inner apron, its facings, and the reverse pleat =
263.75" or 7.32 yards.

[Moosedog]

If you have one good edge (selvedge,) then one option is to do as Barb suggests and just cut a piece off that side for your first attempt. You can always hem and use the not-so-good side later.

Moosedog