Advice from pipers

[Jack Daw]

I play the Soutar medium strength, myself, but started out with the brand's easy reeds. At $8 or $9 a reed, I would go easy on manipulating the chanter reed, but suggest that you give it a gentle pinch after soaking the reed in your mouth. Also, carry one or two spares.

[cajuncelt]

My .02:
Do not touch the reed. It is too hard probably (for now) and you'll only screw it up by jacking with it. Buy an easy reed no matter what else anyone tells you and save the current one for later. Another issue usually not discussed is that if your reed is too hard, you'll learn to blow too hard which is awfully hard to break.

[Mr. Woolery]

First, like everyone else, I'm going to say talk to your instructor. He or she will know a lot more about this and about your particular situation than anyone here, since we can't hold your pipes and blow your reed to compare with what we know and love.

If you want an easy reed, try Abedour Easy reeds. I've been told that they are made by Duncan Soutar, but I am not sure I was told right. I play a Soutar easy most of the time (I've also been happy with Higgins Easy reeds, though they are a little harder than Soutars). My son is 9 and just started on the big pipes. He has an Abedour reed in his chanter and it is very easy to blow.

I don't believe in playing gut-busters. In fact, Jack Lee doesn't advocate such a practice (the local band has had him up a couple of times for workshops), so there's some credibility for you. For now, play the easiest reed you can get and work to learn the blowing and squeezing. That's totally key to playing well. When you have that down, start looking for the best reed for your setup.

I do suggest Soutar reeds because they are so predictable. Apps will make a reed to match your exact pressure if you pay a little extra (great service to offer). Higgins are lovely reeds, so far, but I don't have enough time on them to give more than initial impressions.

With care, a chanter reed should last you 6-12 months. Again, that's according to Jack Lee. He does scrape and poke his reeds without fear or mercy.

When you are ready to adjust reeds (in another few months, likely), get a reed mandrel and several spare reeds. Pick out the reed you like the least after trying them all in your pipes for several tunes. Work on that one to adjust it however you are wanting to. Poke the mandrel into the staple to make it a little harder-blowing (this makes for a better top hand if you don't overdo it). Scrape the center of the blades if you need to ease it up. Pick out the reed you really don't mind killing and try to make it a winner. I've slaughtered a few reeds so far, but I no longer fear scraping or poking to get the performance I want.

-Patrick

[piperdbh]

Bart, let me jump in where BeloitPiper left off:
Remember how clarinet/sax reeds are "graded" by how hard (and therefore loud) they play, with 1 being easy and soft, and 4 being hard and marching-band volume? Chanter reeds are double, and the length of an oboe reed but the width of a bassoon reed, and would translate to roughly 20 on the strength grading system. No kidding, especially with a new reed. Some shops sell them already "blown in", which is a process where a reed is seated into a receptacle of some kind and air is forced (via an air compressor hose) through for hours or even days at a time to begin weakening the cane, making it easier to play. Some experienced 'pipers will sand VERY LIGHTLY on a reed until they get it to "speak" the way they want it, like pro woodwind players shave their reeds. Beginners shouldn't do this, though, as they don't yet know what sound and strength they're looking for. It's kind of like clipping the corners of a clarinet reed because they're chipped. All that does is make the reed harder to play, and eventually ruins it. It's VERY easy (trust me) to ruin a chanter reed very quickly.
Drone reeds are single. They're made from a cylinder of cane, with one end sealed to stop the air, and a long split cut into the sides of the cane to create the "tongue", or vibrating part. If you think of a saxophone mouthpiece (with its reed clamped on) as being one complete unit, and not three different parts, that's kind of how a drone reed is constructed. That's kind of a confusing description, but it's the best I can come up with. Google "drone reed" and see what you can find.
I sometimes soak my chanter reed in water for a couple of minutes before I play, but only if I'm playing for a short time, like two verses of a hymn or an offertory. If you must play for a longer time, such as in a parade, this trick will work against you, because the reed will dry out and change its tuning (I'd imagine it would go flat, since it would vibrate slower) and wreck your performance, and that would be highly uncool.
That's a long-winded way of saying, "Buy a softer reed."

[Kiltedfirepiper]

if you do decide to shave it ( scrape it ) I suggest taking a pencil and drawing a line in the middle of the box on both sides then using a sharp razor blade scrape it lightly towards the bottom of the reed till the mark is gone.that way you wont take too much off. after each time shaving it stick it in set your metronome to 100 bmp and play a note on each beat and try to play the scale up and down. if you cant do it shave a little more off till you can.

my .001 ymmv

KFP

[george7]

Here's a great article. http://www.bagpipejourney.com/articl...rreedmod.shtml

[Bart_In_A_Kilt]

Excellent description... both of you. That made it very clear.

I'm also going to check into the recomended websites.

I have another question, but it may be too far off topic, and instead should have a seperate thread.? It's about Irish 2 drone Warpipes.

[beloitpiper]

Excellent description... both of you. That made it very clear.

I'm also going to check into the recomended websites.

I have another question, but it may be too far off topic, and instead should have a seperate thread.? It's about Irish 2 drone Warpipes.

They're basically the same, just one drone less. Some will argue about the Brian Boru chanter but I've personally never seen these used.