Review of New Kilt and New Kiltmaker--Bonnie Heather

[ForresterModern]

I can’t begin to explain how hard it has been for me the last few weeks waiting to be able to write this review of my newest kilt, a handsewn 8yd 16oz custom made traditional kilt in Forrester Hunting Modern pleated to sett, and crafted by a relatively new member of our xmarks family (she has lurked for some time but just started posting recently). By agreement with my kiltmaker I have been waiting until I completed my thorough examination of the kilt and accompanying pictures, and had a chance to speak with the kiltmaker (who left town for vacation shortly after shipping the kilt to me), and she just got back a couple days ago. So here is the unveiling, and the story behind the scenes.

A couple months ago, through inadvertent contact here on xmarks I met a remarkable woman named Bonnie Heather Greene (aka Bonnie Heather here on xmarks) who has a background as an apprentice kiltmaker to master Scottish kiltmaker Ann Stewart, who was in the business for 50 years and recently retired. Lurking here, reading Barb’s book, and working with Ann she developed her skills for more than three and a half years on over a hundred kilts. She has met with Barb T in a one on one mini seminar. After Ann's retirement Bonnie desired to expand her own business under her own name (bonniekilts.com) and on Barb’s suggestion sought someone on xmarks who wanted a quality handmade kilt in exchange for a complete review of that kilt, as a more formal introduction as a kiltmaker here on xmarks to help grow her business. Stars collided---I had fabric in Forrester Hunting Modern I was looking to have made into a handsewn kilt, and Bonnie was looking for someone to make a kilt for---it was Kismet.

Anyway a deal was struck, prices and details discussed and my fabric wended its way to her home for her to work her magic. I also sent pictures of me wearing my current kilts, particularly those that fit the best, for her to use to assess my physique as it related to my provided measurements. About a month later I received the most beautifully made kilt I own, my first handsewn but one of 8 traditional 8 yard 13 or 16 oz wool kilts, the others all machine sewn by various vendors. I was lucky enough to get on sale 4 meters DW of what should have been stock Strathmore 13 oz Forrester Hunting and due to an error at the mill they instead sent custom woven Strathmore 16 oz tartan instead, a great upgrade, at no additional cost. Bonnie worked her magic and almost two weeks ago I received a beautiful “tank” that fits like a charm and looks absolutely fabulous. She also took photos of the construction process along the way and included them with the kilt so I could “follow along” as best I could with the build up.

The review: First off, dealing with Bonnie was as easy as it could get. Excellent communication, the right questions and answers exchanged easily in a few emails, including measuring advice and details. She kept me apprised of the status of my kilt frequently and even held onto it for an extra couple days when it was first completed while I was out of the country and would not have been at home to sign for it had she sent it. After I received it we have been in communication to make sure everything was as expected, or in case she needed to take it back and make adjustments to get all the details right.. The kilt arrived well packaged, pleats neatly basted, along with the CD containing all the build up photos, and the excess fabric remaining after the kilt build.

Upon inspection the workmanship is impeccable, with very even spacing of the nearly invisible hand stitching, with none of the “unevenness” of stitching I have heard so much about in others descriptions of the charm of a handstitched kilt. All seams were straight and all tartan lines lined up exceptionally well across the whole fell, with impeccably aligned pleats. Design and construction are as good if not better than anything else I own or have seen, with heavy gauge leather straps and buckles well and neatly sewn into place. Beautiful flat aprons when the kilt is put on and snugged up, with the best fit of any kilt I own, with the buckles adjusted to the middle holes in all three straps. Belt loops and buckle straps handsewn and lined up with the tartan, and the waistband is lined up on the front apron. The whole kilt was handsewn, except for a hidden seam at the base of the waist band before it was turned over, a seam that is not visible from the outside at all. Lining is soft yet sturdy, strap hole cleanly finished, and all the small details like apron fringes,etc… well done and attractive. The photos she provided show the handstitching throughout, the neat removal of excess fabric from under the fell, what I must presume to be stabilizing material/hair canvas applied beneath the lining and over the fell, templates and calculations and even a neatly completed very thorough orderly task chart of each specific task checked off as it was completed. Someone who knows a lot more about kilt design and construction would have to inspect this kilt to find anything even remotely resembling a flaw, because it passes my inspection with flying colors. 5+ inch reverse and first pleats, all other pleats between 3.5 and 4 inches, total 30 pleats, standard three buckles and straps but high quality compared to others I own. I sent her 4 meters of DW fabric, just shy of 315 linear inches once split, and she used just shy of 309 of those inches to make this kilt. Talk about efficiency and getting the most for your buck.

Pictures as follows:









Sorry about the low sporran position (new sporran hangers with this sporran), poor choice of shoes, and the lack of a McMurdo pleat view (I took a pic of the reverse pleat side by mistake). I will post a few of the construction pictures later when I have more time. Although from the pics it looks a tad long that is just the camera angle my wife took them from---selvedge hits me square in the middle of my kneecaps.


Pleased would be an understatement for my degree of satisfaction with this kilt. I am ecstatic, proud and honored to wear such a fine piece of artisan workmanship, especially since it is in one of my two family tartans, and now a family heirloom. I have no reservations recommending Bonnie as a quality handsewn kiltmaker of high order to anyone else, and am also proud to be able to write this review helping to launch her business to the rabble here at xmarks. Please contact Bonnie Heather (her handle here) by PM directly or via the email available on her budding web page, bonniekilts.com, for information about her kiltmaking experience, techniques and prices. Do not hesitate to PM me with any further questions you might have with regard to my experience with her and my kilt.

To quote my West Virginia grandfather, a rather colorful speaker to say the least, “I am happier than a pig in sh….. uhhhh, …slop.” I wore my kilt this weekend to the Kentucky Highland Ren Faire to hear Albannach, and may again on Tuesday to our next kilt night. Heck I am so in love with it I just might sleep in it (kidding of course).

Thank you Bonnie for allowing me to be your first xmarks customer, for the priviliege of introducing you here to the rabble, and for such a fine quality piece of craftsmanship as you have provided me in my new kilt. Good luck with your business and keep in touch.

Jeff :ootd: