The endless military box pleat questions...

**Tartan Tess** · 15th February 12, 03:30 PM

OK I am starting to get it. Thanks for the picture.
The pleats, from the salvage up to the bottom of the fell are doubled over onto themselves and you baste the heck out of them. the pleats from the bottom of the fell up to the top of the kilt just hang out until I get the "Bottom"part all tacked down.

**Aspiringloser** · 15th February 12, 04:09 PM

You won't be stitching the edge of the first pleat through the edge of the second pleat. You'll be stitching the right edge of the first pleat to the left edge of the second pleat. The excess basting is necessary since the extra fold back over to the left adds more layers to try to control. Since it's to the no stripe, my suggestion would be to make an imaginary center line on the pleats with chalk so that your tapering is still done evenly to each side of each pleat. Bear in mind I've not yet attempted a military box pleat, I've only read all the threads you mentioned in your first post.

**Tartan Tess** · 15th February 12, 04:49 PM

So here's another thought...if you start the pleats like a knife pleat kilt and fold them over onto themselves, where does the "Box" pleat come into this? I think that is where my mind is hanging up on this?
Thanks everybody. I don't mean to beat a dead horse with these questions. Perhaps there is another thread I missed. This place is loaded with them and isn't that wonderful!

**Paul Henry** · 15th February 12, 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by Tartan Tess

So here's another thought...if you start the pleats like a knife pleat kilt and fold them over onto themselves, where does the "Box" pleat come into this? I think that is where my mind is hanging up on this?
Thanks everybody. I don't mean to beat a dead horse with these questions. Perhaps there is another thread I missed. This place is loaded with them and isn't that wonderful!

The military box pleat isn't really a true box pleat, it's actually a folded over knife pleat, but has become known as the military box pleat, it has very little to do with a standard box pleat

**Tartan Tess** · 15th February 12, 05:07 PM

Thank you Paul.
I did find this explanation from Matt http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...26/index3.html

It is all starting to click now. I have 8 yards to work with and because of Matts post I get what to do with the extra fabric. I promise to post pictures. Anymore suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you all.

**The Wizard of BC** · 15th February 12, 05:44 PM

Tess,

As has been said the pleats of a Military Box Pleated Kilt do not actually form a box.

Imagine if you will a standard Knife Pleated kilt, then imagine reaching under the kilt with your hand and flipping all the inside portions of the pleats the other way.

In fact this is how I sew a Military Box Pleated Kilt. I begin just as I would for a standard Knife Pleat kilt except the pleats are all laid out going in the wrong direction.
I bast each pleat to the one underneath just as I would normally. Then I reach under the kilt and 'flop' all the pleats the other direction.
I then baste the pleats again.
Then press the heck out of the whole thing.

**bonnie heather** · 15th February 12, 07:16 PM

Steve, that's what i did, too.
My question: Is there a rule that the pleats must face the Left? Or the Right?
I looked carefully at a Black Watch vintage MBP kilt and the pleats faced left.
But I also studied a Royal Stewart MBP kilt and the pleats faced right.
When making my first military box pleated kilt, it was easier to make it with the pleats facing right, because I could sew the pleats as for knife pleats and then turn the pleat depth under and backwards, with the inner crease facing right.

**The Wizard of BC** · 15th February 12, 07:26 PM

Bonnie,

I don't suppose there is any "rule" but I do imagine that each Regiment had their own standards.

I have examined many military kilts with military box pleats and they all face towards the wearers left.

This means that you would start out basting as you would for a normal knife pleated kilt with all the pleats facing towards the wearers left. Then flip the under-pleats back on themselves on the inside of the kilt.

**Father Bill** · 15th February 12, 07:42 PM

+Bill

**Tartan Tess** · 16th February 12, 10:23 AM

Hey Thanks Father Bill...it is getting answered isn't it?

Can I ask a few more questions????
Does the MBP kilt have an inverted pleat?
When do you sew down the fell line (waist to Hip taper) ?
before I do any basting, or before I flip it?
Thanks , you guys ROCK!