1) My waist in actual measurement's
Is around 32
And my Hip
39
If I were to make or commission a box-pleated kilt at some point, which length of a tartan should I order? Somewhere between 3.5 yards to 4.5?
I realize it doesn't make a huge difference, but in cost it does.
Any guesstimate's at a safe length?

2) People have said the tartan kilt look's poorly at the supposed jean waist, but in trying on kilt's at a local shop, I have found that I really do not like wearing them at the natural waist. I just can't relax in it with my breathing. Highly expansive stomach.
Is there any kilt-maker's that would and possibly has experience in doing a box pleated kilt at the jean waist?

Thank's for your help