A new consolidated Jacket Conversion Thread

[MacLowlife]

kilt with linen.jpg

This is an unconstructed linen jacket, in a slightly unusual color. A tailor converted it for me and did a good job, but I am not convinced the full -sized patch pockets look "right". What makes it worth my while is the light weight, which is good for at least 6 months in SC. It has no vent, but its light weight makes it easy to wear.

I do not expect people to be proud of experiments that didn't work out, or of "learning experiences" but we might all just be understanding and recognize that some conversions are better than others. To my mind, the most obvious problems are pocket flaps without enough space below them and vents that end up being less than 4" long. I think closing a vent may be better than leaving it short, but often it is easy enough to open a vent up a little further.

[CMcG]

kilt with linen.jpg

This is an unconstructed linen jacket, in a slightly unusual color. A tailor converted it for me and did a good job, but I am not convinced the full -sized patch pockets look "right". What makes it worth my while is the light weight, which is good for at least 6 months in SC. It has no vent, but its light weight makes it easy to wear.

I do not expect people to be proud of experiments that didn't work out, or of "learning experiences" but we might all just be understanding and recognize that some conversions are better than others. To my mind, the most obvious problems are pocket flaps without enough space below them and vents that end up being less than 4" long. I think closing a vent may be better than leaving it short, but often it is easy enough to open a vent up a little further.

I think that your uncertainty about the full size patch pockets may be warranted... I'm guessing they'd look better (i.e. less conversion-like) if they were a bit shorter, like about equal with the middle of your three buttons. On the other hand, I see what you said about the shorter lapels being important for a conversion candidate because they work very nicely on yours. I hand not considered vent length either...

[MNlad]

All of MacLowlife's advice is spot on.

There was a period of time in the 1960s when sport coats featured higher collars (gorges), double vents, and pockets that were significantly higher than was the fashion the following three decades. These make for the easiest conversions, but are hard to find today. Next in line are three-button suit coats where you often eliminate the bottom button and buttonhole as part of the process. The hardest to convert, but the ones you find most often, are later generation two-button jackets. Trying to eliminating the bottom button to accommodate a sporran often results in a severe cut-away look. Combined with the deep plunging neckline, it unfortunately usually screams CONVERSION!

It takes persistence to find a good candidate jacket, but when you do find one, it's like hitting the jackpot. In the meantime, try your hand at one or two thrift store coat conversions. You're only out a few dollars and when the right jacket does come alone, you'll feel much more comfortable taking a scissors to it.

[MacLowlife]

Here are a couple of converted jackets that have served lately as moth rations.

One is a very old tuxedo jacket that I used once or twice. I turned under ( actually pushed in, like folding socks, almost) four or five inches of length and whipped/ basted the new hemline. When I wore it, I had square buttons at the waist and cuff, but those have been removed. Nowadays, I would probably search for a "Spencer" jacket or maybe a USAF dress mess, but when I needed a black tie kilt jacket, this one did well in a pinch.

(Because it was a dark party, I did not bother to improve the cutaway. The jacket has a slightly odd "chopped off" look to it, with just a little remaining cutaway from the original length. But black tie jackets are often 'odd' or 'original' so I figured it was OK.)

The other jacket came to me as part of an auction lot. It is an ancient and honorable Harris Tweed sport jacket, originally a 46 Long. I believe it was made for a gentleman of some girth. As you can see, it was treated to a radical cutaway treatment. I can't be sure whether a new button and buttonhole were added higher up, or that was a button that was never intended to be buttoned, but was always there. One other buttonhole remains, sort of- they did a patch job on the inner facing of the coat front and effectively plastered over the other side of the buttonhole, like a window that has been walled in. Look for the bottom buttonhole, barely visible in the pictures and just plain forlorn. Interestingly, I think the flaps look OK, at least vis-a vis the hemline, but that is the nicest thing I can say about this one.

Maybe another handy rule is to pay attention to how the flaps line up with the buttons- I will have to think about that some more...

Like my semi-constructed rusty linen, this jacket seems to work best when it is buttoned- the lapel wants to go other places- it wants to roll like a "3/2 Ivy League" jacket, where the front HAS 3 buttons, but the lapels are "rolled" to the second button. If you don't understand what I am talking about just go to That Internet Auction Site or Etsy and search 3/2 ivy...


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Just a couple of other notes:

A friendly correspondent told me about a tool that tailors use- it is a "French curve" similar to the one draftsmen use and it aids in the plotting and cutting of the cut away. That same gent also suggested the crucial role of proper buttons. Like my chopped off tuxedo jacket above, which passed because it had square silver buttons, many a converted jacket is improved by stag or leather knot buttons, or at least interesting horn ones, where formerly dwelled shiny plastic ones.

I have at least two more installments to add later on- won't someone else add a little more meat to this stone soup?

Meanwhile, thanks, all and sundry for your help and encouragement- keep those pictures and stories coming.
M'll

[Nathan]

I used to wear a converted tweed in my teens and that experience taught me a few things. I'll share them here:

1) Do the math. If you're paying a tailor, it's often less expensive to buy a used kilt jacket rather than converting one but if you are a less common size, you may not have that option. So, know what your tailor charges for each alteration and calculate that to see if the purchase is worth it. You could pay a lot for almost right.
2) Double down. If you are converting, look for a double vented jacket. This is easier in Britain because in NA most sports coats are single vented or at least they were during the tweed craze of the 70s and early 80s where many of your source material will come from. Even Harris Tweeds made for the NA market are single vented. Frustrating. Jackets designed to be worn with the kilt are double vented.
3) Get Shorty. If you take say a 40 Regular, get a 40 Short if possible. You'll have to lengthen the sleeves but everything else (button stance, gorge, height of vents, pocket flaps) will work better on a jacket that's already cut for a shorter man. Ensure there's enough cloth to lengthen the sleeves if you go that route. If you're not adding gauntlet cuffs, ensure the cloth isn't faded at the cuff as that will show when you lengthen the sleeves. If you're already short, disregard this one.
3) Nip the waist. Take in the sides a little to create a "new" waist and give the jacket better shape. jackets are cut to tuck in and flare out again. On a Saxon jacket this usually happens closer to the hips than on a kilt jacket.
4) Stay away from the corner. Avoid corners on your cutaway. A three button jacket helps with this but converted jackets often have an obvious corner where the cutaway starts rather than a smooth line like kilt jackets.
5) Attack the wack low flap. As MacLowlife mentioned, move your pocket flaps up so the bottom of them just covers your pocket slit. Pockets that are too close to the hem of your jacket are a dead giveaway. Patch pockets, while easier to deal with, don't look right.
6) Stag party. As MacLowlife mentioned, change the buttons. Factor the cost of new buttons into your math.
7) Give three piece a chance. Finally, if you can start with a tweed 3 pc suit, you'll end up with a matching waistcoat and lots of extra material from the trousers for making gauntlet cuffs, epaulettes etc...

If you can do this yourself and are a very patient shopper, you can save a lot of money. Wait for the right candidate for conversion.

[MacLowlife]

These heavy wool flannel Swiss military tunics used to be very cheap. They are a good grey-blue-green color and they are very well made. They are best suited, like a heavy tweed, to outdoor use. However, there is no reason why this same project couldn't be applied to lighter -weight tunics.

There are a lot of pockets and flaps here. Fortunately, the flaps all close with hidden snaps, so the "full safari" effect is toned down just a little bit and you don't have quite so many buttons to replace.swiaa conversion 001.jpgswiaa conversion 002.jpgswiaa conversion 003.jpgswiaa conversion 005.jpg

The metal belt hangers are pretty easy to remove- the swatches of fabric that hold them are basted on the surface and removing them leaves no marks.

[CMcG]

These heavy wool flannel Swiss military tunics used to be very cheap. They are a good grey-blue-green color and they are very well made. They are best suited, like a heavy tweed, to outdoor use. However, there is no reason why this same project couldn't be applied to lighter -weight tunics.

....

The cut-away on that one is quite angular, but works well with the military look of the jacket... it's somehow balanced because it almost mirrors the angle and size of the lapels

[MacLowlife]

The cut-away on that one is quite angular, but works well with the military look of the jacket... it's somehow balanced because it almost mirrors the angle and size of the lapels

A useful comparison is the WWII (UK) Officer's cutaway jacket:

http://onlinemilitaria.com/shopdispl...+SCOTTISH+GEAR

Because the UK jackets feature patch pockets, the cutaway looks improvised to me. Be sure to see WPG's Other Ranks tunics, which lack a belt and button all of the way to the chin.

The Sportsman's Guide is a good source for Euro military tunics, usually well under $20. The often have some kind of Ike jacket. Not presently available, but my personal favorite is a French or Belgian Aviator's jacket, in a shirt-weight navy wool blend, with a fly front and a waistband like an Ike jacket. It has only two golden epaulet buttons showing and is very dressy.

[MNlad]

A friendly correspondent told me about a tool that tailors use- it is a "French curve" similar to the one draftsmen use and it aids in the plotting and cutting of the cut away.

The French curve is invaluable to anyone contemplating a conversion. I got one after my second attempt and it made all the difference in the world in getting the sweeping curve for the sporran to look right. Gone is all the guesswork involved in trying to eyeball it and getting both sides to match.

[rondo]

Okay, I have posted these before but it is relevant...so here goes:
Not a conversion but a made to measure contemporary jacket:
P8080371.jpgP8080373.jpg
A converted tweed, as noted the pocket flaps are too low:
P5040420.jpgP5040421.jpg
A converted contemporary tuxedo jacket, this has no side pockets so no flap problem but the cutaway is severe:
P5040418.jpgP5040419.jpg
Finally, probably the best of my converted jackets, a morning coat converted to mess jacket:
P5040423.jpgP5040424.jpg
Feel free to pick apart the conversions, I am well aware of the perceived flaws with converting and I hope others can learn better how to go about converting by looking at these pics and discussing them openly. I think the charcoal coat would have turned out much better if the tailor had been less severe with the sporran cutaway and the tweed would be better if the flaps were raised. However, no one seems to really notice when I wear them. The grey mess jacket I can find very little to complain about...it just works in my opinion.
Rondo