Experimenting with a demin kilt. Help keep me motivated!

[JDaugherty]

I wonder if using the denim to make the outside of the pleats and the apron would result in something more flexible - the swish of the pleats being such a basic thing with kilts.

It would also take much less denim.

If you take a length of fabric to form the inner fold of the pleats below the fell - either something blue or black - or a bright pattern, then cut strips, sew them together to form the fell and the apron and then add the pleated fabric either in strips or top stitch the denim down onto it. Make the deep under apron pleats full length, waist to hem for free movement and make the under apron too.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

Actually, this is what I was hoping to do...my only problem is I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how to make the pleats out of two seperate materials. I'm more of a visual person and can't seem to find anywhere online that'll show an example of how they'd be stitched together. :/

[sydnie7]

Actually, this is what I was hoping to do...my only problem is I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how to make the pleats out of two seperate materials. I'm more of a visual person and can't seem to find anywhere online that'll show an example of how they'd be stitched together. :/

Have you made a kilt before? You might want to start with an XKilt, which is well suited to this fabric and the two-fabric adaptation. There's a sticky thread at the top of this DIY forum with links to the instructions and LOTS of photos to help you visualize the process.

[JDaugherty]

Now that i've had a bit of coffee, my brain is starting to wrap itself around your suggestions, Pleater. I think I'm gonna dig my way through mom's storage closet and see what excess material she has and just sew the denim strips onto different material. Origionaly, i was going to do alternating strips of the main denim and one of the lighter denims; but I like the idea of a different mat/color all together.

I haven't made a kilt before, this will be my first attempt (I figure if i can do one out of recycled material at least once, i'll have no trouble doing one out of good material the right way? It makes sense if you're in my head haha) I have been using the xkilt pdf as a guide though, jotting down notes of things that might help me, making little changes i think ill need to adjust for the project.

[Pleater]

Ok - well unfolded in imagination before you, you have the backings strip. You lay the strips of denim onto the backing strip with a small hem already folded under and sew through both layers from the base of the fell to the lower edge.

Now visualise folding the backing material out of sight so bringing the strips of denim together at the top. Perhaps you might use half inch tape to sew through and join together the top of the kilt where it is shaped to narrow it into the waist. The same tape can be sewn horizontally along the top of the backing strip to cover the raw edges.

You now sew onto the edges of the pleats - from waist to lower edge pieces of backing material to form the under apron pleat and under apron on the right side and the under apron pleat on the left, then the denim apron.

If your backing material is not very heavy you could use it doubled, so the lower edge will not require finishing.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[JDaugherty]

Quick question. how/where would i measure to determine how long the pleats will be? I found a looong strip of light blue material that'll work perfectly. It's definitely more than long enough but i'm concerned it might not be er... 'tall" enough. Do I measure from the top of my rump or halfway down?

Rereading yoru post a few times, pleater, so it sinks in. I think I'm following your visualizationg well, but I'm gonna lay the material out in a bit and snap a picture to make sure i'm understanding. lol Btw, very helpful to explain it i na way to help visualize it. Thank you for that. (It's odd that I've always had a great imagination and loved reading; yet I have to *see* something to understand it...>.<)

[Stitchwiz]

Suggestions for working with denim:

If you have a problem with bulk in the denim, raid your tool box and bring out the hammer!
I have one with a regular head with a small handle which is perfect - you have better control with a shorter handle. My husband found it a tool shop (he can't remember which one, it was 22 years ago!) Try a big box reno store.
Whenever you need to stitch over multiple layers of denim, like a seam, pound the area to be stitched with your hammer - about 3 blows for each spot usually works for me. The hammer will flatten down and relax the fibres in the denim and make it much easier to sew.
Make sure you have a solid surface to pound on - DON'T do this on your Grandma's antique Duncan Phyfe table!
If you do this on your sewing machine, you will eventually pound the paint right off - don't recommend this either.
A small piece of patio stone, or a block of hard wood works well.
Remember, you aren't making flax, don't beat it to a pulp. Perhaps try it on some scraps to get the feel for it.

Make yourself a Hump Jumper:
Find a double-stitched seam - an inner leg seam is perfect. Cut a strip about 6" long and 1½" - 1¾' wide with the seam running down one side, Fold it so that the finished size will be about 4" X 1½". Half will be single thickness and half will be double thickness. Hammer the fold about 3 times in each spot. Stitch down the seam side, (be sure to back stitch), stitch across the short side, and up the other double side. Before you get to the fold, tuck in a cord of some sort at the corner (a spare boot lace would work), stitch it closed and backstitch to secure everything. If you like, you can serge the 2 cut edges to keep fraying to a minimum. I wouldn't suggest serging the seam side - a regular household serger won't be able to handle the bulk, you might bend the fingers in the serger. ($Ouch! been there, done that, won't do it again.)

Now you can hang your Hump Jumper close to your machine. I have several made for the different weights of denim. I keep all of the Hump Jumpers on a large key ring under the right front foot of my sewing machine. They are always right there and I can't accidentally discard one. If I don't need them, I can hang them by the ring out of the way and they stay together. The wide width beside the seam gives you enough fabric that you can maneuver the Hump Jumper easily - this is a cheap and easy gadget to make. If you find you need it wider or narrower, it's a simple thing to make another one.

Using your Hump Jumper:
When you have to go over a seam, reach for your handy, dandy Hump Jumper.
Just as your pressure foot starts to lift on the seam, stop with the needle in the fabric, lift the pressure foot, tuck the Hump Jumper in behind your foot with the original jean seam under the back of the foot, lower the foot down again and the foot will be level - if your pressure foot isn't level, try the other end of your Hump Jumper. Now you can stitch perfectly across the seam. Often you don't need it coming off the seam, but if you find you have skipped stitches after the seam, you need to stop with the needle down when the toe of your foot just tips down at the front, lift the foot and put your Hump Jumper, seam side, under the foot on the one side only and set the pressure foot down onto the denim with the needle right beside the Humper Jumper. I usually put it on the right side of the foot. This way you can stitch off the seam without running over your Hump Jumper. When the pressure foot is clear of the seam, lift the foot, remove the Hump Jumper, lower your foot and carry on.
As long as your pressure foot is level, your machine will stitch properly. When the pressure foot is tipped up or down, you will frequently have skipped stitches.

Hope this helps.
After putting all this down and editing it, you seem to have made amazing progress! Bravo!
Program the coffee-maker to brew another pot in a few hours and keep at it!
Keep your camera handy to record your progress so we can all learn from your experience. We're cheering you on!
Looking forward to seeing your denim kilt!

[JDaugherty]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I doubt i'll ever work with denim again after this XD Thankfully, I'm nearly done. It's not looking beautiful by far, and the "pleats" (i use this term loosely :/) look like a child did them..with one hand. At this point it's pretty safe to say that I'm making a mow-the-yard kilt hahaha but the plus side is, i've already talked mom into taking me on the hunt for 5 or6 yards of material next weekend--so i'll be able to do a proper xkilt! YAY

I'll try to remmeber to get some pictures in the morning; i'm pretty much spent for the night on sewing hah. All I have left is to attach the upper and under aprons, sew up the back/waistband and fashion some sort of closure for it. >.<

[ratspike]

Don't even sweat it if this didn't turn out to match the idea you had in your head. It was your first one. The first kilt I made was completely unwearable, and the second was only marginally less so. Big props for jumping in at the deep end too, with the different colors in the pleats. You learn something every time you sew up a project so keep charging ahead.

[Theyoungkiltman]

I am sure it doesn't look TOO bad, if you would like a tartan kilt Joann craft sells "black stewart" for 7.99/yd and often has sales on it. It is in the "flannel shirting" section. It is tagged as royal stewart although it is the black variant.