Problems with my Apron

**Pleater** · 27th May 16, 06:36 PM

The pleat is being pushed open, that is how it is being shaped in three dimensions when it is being worn.
There might be other ways to correct it, but the pulling up of the inner fold is the one which works for me.
No matter how you work on the pleat when it is flat, to press it flatter, when it is put on the pleat is pushed outwards.
Try it with a piece of paper.

make an inner fold, then roll the paper around without creasing it, so you have one pleat, hold it vertical. Push the fold down and the pleat will roll out, pull the fold up and the pleat is pushed closed.

Anne the Pleater

**Adrian** · 28th May 16, 02:13 AM

I'm just looking at your sizing information, very similar size to me...and you look a very similar build...
I'll work through the numbers and see how they compare - I've several kilts
I been getting to grips with this, couldn't just do it from the book...
I've also have a few under construction and a stock of a tartans... swatch books etc
Feel free to drop me a PM if you are visiting Scarborough

**Adrian** · 28th May 16, 02:29 AM

I've just done a quick conversion to cm and compared with my measurements, at first glance (without meeting you and measuring everything) it looks tight on the apron hip measurement. I know your numbers add up....but there is a bit of an art to getting this right and you develop your own individual feel despite what the various txts on the subject say.
I measure around the hips at 38.5, master kiltmaker and mentor guided me through my first kilt based on 40...

**Adrian** · 28th May 16, 03:18 AM

Perhaps if you allow a little more width on the apron front at the hips, I'm working on between 50 to 52 cm (19.5-20.5 inch) adjust the shaping to suit on the front apron, you'll probably get there.

**Sean Wilson** · 28th May 16, 03:56 AM

Thank you Adrian & Anne.... there's plenty of food for thought there. I'm going to try widening the apron and pulling the pleat up too on Monday... I'll let you know how it goes.

**GrainReaper** · 29th May 16, 05:40 AM

I'm interested to see how this is resolved, seems like an issue that could arise for anyone in the process of crafting a kilt.

**Sean Wilson** · 29th May 16, 06:05 AM

Originally Posted by GrainReaper

I'm interested to see how this is resolved, seems like an issue that could arise for anyone in the process of crafting a kilt.

I always thought it would be the pleats that threw me but on both occasions it's been the left side of the apron...

**GrainReaper** · 29th May 16, 06:17 AM

Originally Posted by Sean Wilson

I always thought it would be the pleats that threw me but on both occasions it's been the left side of the apron...

I've not gone down this path yet.... YET!.... I have TAoK and have read it cover to cover many times, the pleats appear to be no more than division and then adding the taper derived through simple math, (I like the pleating method Developed by the Wizard of BC) , the artistry seems to come in with the apron sizing and manipulation to get a flat section of tartan to fit an anything-but-flat human shape.

**Sean Wilson** · 30th May 16, 04:42 AM

Well... I did it... and I'm stunned at the solution but before I spill the beans here's both apron edges. Remember the kilt's not finished and there are no straps on yet so its precariously held in place with a belt.

Just a reminder... it looked like this (in mirror image)

20160526_195222.jpg

Now it looks like this

20160530_120447.jpg 20160530_120602.jpg

I unstitched the first pleat, added an extra inch to the hip line of the apron and pinned everything into place... It still didn't work. I tried Anne's suggestion with the deep pleat and still no joy. So I stitched everything back as it was and resigned myself to the fact this would be a house kilt.

As I mentioned earlier... I might as well try steam pressing the apron. I took out my ham and curved the top of the apron. Steam pressed the apron edge and deep pleat into place before trying on again. This time it fit nicely.

20160530_122431.jpg

I have to say I'm gob smacked. Steam was the magic ingredient!!!!!

I'll post again when the kilts finished ;-)

**Barb T** · 4th June 16, 09:32 AM

Sorry I'm so late to the party. If I'd seen this earlier, I would have suggested exactly what you did - baste the apron edge properly and then steam it to shape it. That's why the instructions in TAoK tell you to press everything at once after the top band is on. The reason that it looks funny in all your original images is that the apron edge is hanging loose and "wants" to fold parallel to the weft threads (i.e., straight down the tartan stripes). The apron edge _should_ not only be basted on the diagonal but it should be basted to the first pleat to hold it all together before you press. If it had been basted like that, it would have fit and looked much like the fringe edge does, and, if you had put it on with _all_ the basting in, it would have fit pretty well (although it would have felt a little weird). So, bottom line - leave all the basting in (including the pleat basting and the basting that holds the apron edge to the pleats). Once you have the top band on, press the kilt all at once. And leave _all_ the basting in until you have the buckles, straps, and lining on. Take out the basting last.

In terms of the splits between apron and pleats, they are fine and are exactly what I would have used if I were making a kilt for you.