To the Stripe or the Sett, that is the Question?

[slohairt]

I prefer pleated to the stripe, but there are some tartans that just don't look good unless they're done to the sett.

[EagleJCS]

J. C. Thompson wrote that pleating to the stripe is considered a more military look (he actually describes it as military pleating - So You're Going to Wear the Kilt, p. 57, third edition), while pleating to the sett is "civilian".

To me, it would really depend on the tartan. I'd have to see the tartan each way to really decide. Plus, it can make a difference as to which stripe you pleat to, if there's a choice of more than one color. (For example, Scott Green has yellow, red or white stripes to choose from. Scott Red has just white or black).

Is there software that can do this for us? If not - someone develop it, please!!!

[Standard]

I usually prefer pleating to the sett. The look of uniformity around the whole kilt to me looks nice. That being said however, pleating to the stripe does work for me sometimes. I especially like the look of when a hidden bold colour pops during the swish. That makes for a very striking kilt appearance.

[McClef]

My main preference is pleating to the sett and I always ask for this when it's being made to measure. I guess I like the tartan to be visible all round rather than just at the front.

However I do have some kilts pleated to the stripe - ones which were already made up and in my waist size. I am perfectly happy with them.

There can be some striking effects with stripe pleats of course but some tartans just don't look right IMHO when this is done.

[herminator]

I prefer to pleat my kilts to the stripe, not only do I like the look of having the apron in a different design, it is also much easier to alter my kilt. This is becoming necessary again due to weight reduction. And when I have to take pleats out again it´s much easier with stripes...

[Highlander31]

I prefer pleated to the sett. However, if the right tartan comes along,...and it talks nicely to me,...I might be willing to try pleating to the stripe.

[TheKiltedCoder]

As I've gotten further into things, I've discovered that I (generally) prefer the look of pleating to the stripe vs sett. In particular, I've got a USAK Semi-Trad in Thompson Grey that was pleated to the red stripe. As I walk (and the kilt swooshes), the white inside the pleats flashes out, giving a very nice effect.

I've also got a custom SWK Hunting MacRae heavyweight pleated to the stripe, but my SWK Black Watch heavyweight is pleated to the sett.

Brian

[Jock Scot]

As has already been said, but it is worth repeating, civilian kilts are traditionally pleated to the sett. It is worth remembering this, as most kilt makers in the UK(can't say about anywhere else) will assume that is how the kilt is to be made, unless instructed otherwise. In my humble opinion, kilts pleated to the stripe look far too "busy" for my liking.

[nab2488]

I kilt to the set my self. To me to the stripe looks like it completely hides the tartan in the back and all you can only see the tartan on the apron. Now if I get a tartan that is IMO ugly then maybe I would pleat to the stripe.

[Scott West]

I feel the tartan will dictate the most attractive pleating. I recently ordered a tank - an 8yd, 16oz Strome in Buchanan Hunting Modern from Lochcarron. I generally prefer pleating to the stripe. However, in this instance i decided to pleat to the sett. Why? The Buchanan Hunting Modern has a thin yellow stripe and thin steel blue stripe set against bottle green, brown and black stripes. Pleating to the yellow or blue stripe would have produced an unbalanced appearance with the rear extremely lighter than the front. Pleating to the brown or black would have produced a rear very dark and with single, thin horizontal lines from the yellow and blue stripe. So, in this case pleating to the sett was really the only aesthetic option. Hope this helps.