ladies oxfords

[DWFII]

They aren't always tapered...each layer or "lift" is about a quarter inch thick. Most men's shoes up to one inch in heel height (four layers) will be straight. Some men's boots up to inch and a quarter ("10/8ths" in the Trade) will be straight although it is nearly "maker's choice" at this HH. But above that height any footwear with a straight heel will walk clunky simply because the back of the heel will strike the ground too far back (or too soon) and as the foot rolls to the ball the heel will slam down sort of like a horseshoe on a horse. Ideally we want sort of a rocker action of the foot during gait.

Truth to tell, it is not at all uncomfortable or unbalanced to taper a heel on a 18/8 heel to about the size of a quarter. Of course that's extreme but it works both functionally and aesthetically. Of course at that heel height, other physiological issues begin to crop up. but that's another story.

Then too, if the heel is made of stacked leather there is a weight factor. Cutting a taper in the heel also takes some of that weight away.

The ladies oxfords are, of course at 10/8th in heel height, so they can benefit from some refinement and they look daintier and prettier if they are tapered.

I tell you my favourite combination of colours ...and it would have looked good on this shoe but it is too commonplace around my household...is black and tan. Classic British country elegance.

[English Bloke]

Your skill is so impresssive. I am in awe.

[svc40bt]

Thanks for your usual thorough and educational explanation. I find that the answer to my question was both and a couple more.

The reason I asked was I have a pair of logger boots with a tapered heel (Vibram rubber, not stacked leather) and guessed there was likely some other reason for it than looking dainty and pretty.

I thought the rubber ones might be mimicing the style from a previous incarnation of stacked leather where construction required it. Didn't think there might be a physiological reason for it, but that makes sense now that you mention it. Amazing how much engineering goes into a pair of shoes.

[DWFII]

In the case of your vibram heels, they do mimic earlier leather heels stacks...but all the rest still applies if the heel is above 10/8". This may seem self evident but, if I'm thinking of the same heels that you have (they come pre-shaped), the tapering is cut concave. Stylish but non-functional. They could just as well have been cut with straight sides.

On a leather stack, of that size, the hollowing of the taper would have reduced the weight just that much more.

[12stones]

Fantastic! I was perusing your site on Friday and your work is beautiful. A three year waiting list!? You must be busy.

[DWFII]

Thank you to all who have offered praise.

As for a 3 year waiting list...it's not quite that long, anymore. I've been semi-retired now for about five years and I've cut that time in about half. I do more teaching...and BBQ'ing ...now.

[vmac3205]

OMG!!!
I have been looking for something like that for years. They are brilliant. I LOVE them. You wouldn't be interested in a trade would you? Say, a nice Inverness cape?