Who has the best bargain on a tank?

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Thank you, John. I did not know that. Is there some reason that kiltmakers who do machine stitching don't include reinforcement? I'm guessing it's because perhaps normal sewing machines can't handle punching through the extra thickness of material.

If the hand-stitching means better performance due to this additional reinforcement, then perhaps it is something I should take into consideration. These are the kinds of details I was hoping to get, in order to truly be able to determine how each kiltmaker's price corresponds to the quality.

Actually the reinforcing and lining is blind stitched to inside of the kilt after the pleating is finished. Stitching lines from sewing machines would show if they were used to stitch the lining and reinforcing into the back of the kilt, so some makers don't use it which results in a lower quality kilt overall.

Other makers though machine stitch the pleats in and then hand stitch the same lining and reinforcing into the back of the kilt as an entirely hand-stitched kilt would have. The results of this "hybrid" style of kilt are exceptionally close to a hand stitched masterpiece with around half the required amount of hand stitching.

[slohairt]

Actually the reinforcing and lining is blind stitched to inside of the kilt after the pleating is finished. Stitching lines from sewing machines would show if they were used to stitch the lining and reinforcing into the back of the kilt, so some makers don't use it which results in a lower quality kilt overall.

Other makers though machine stitch the pleats in and then hand stitch the same lining and reinforcing into the back of the kilt as an entirely hand-stitched kilt would have. The results of this "hybrid" style of kilt are exceptionally close to a hand stitched masterpiece with around half the required amount of hand stitching.

Exactly. Some machine-made kilts are, in fact, partly hand-sewn. Therefore, it's always a good idea to ask the company/kilt maker what methods they use.

[derosa]

I'll throw my 2 cents for Keltoi. I've got 2 and they're great, nice fit. I'd like to get kilts from Barb Tewksbury and Matt Newsome as well but wouldn't hesitate to have John make the next.

[turpin]

Pockets are useful.

Now I'm just trying to picture a sporran with fuzzy dice, for Ford Anglia drivers,

These aren't exactly fuzzy dice, but it gives a general idea.

[ForresterModern]

The biggest issue is the custom weave tartan, as Colquhoun Weathered was only woven by Lochcarron but is no longer a standard stock item, as John said above. It used to be available in 16oz/Strome so you may find some loose stock around in someone's tartan pile but that would be a lucky find.

If you choose a kiltmaker first you may be able to have them make the custom order weave and then just pay a package price, as opposed to ordering the fabric yourself, waiting for it to arrive (8-12 weeks), meanwhile shopping for your kiltmaker. Large selection of kiltmakers and retailers both in the forum and outside, at a variety of prices and some quality and service spectrum.

I personally have gotten great kilts from Barb T and Bonnie Heather (handsewns), from scotweb (partially machine sewn, partially handsewn), and from JHiggins, Scottishkilts/Tartanweb, and Heritage of Scotland (machine sewn), not including a B&S casual and 2 8yd PV off the rack budget kilts, which I consider in a whole different class from the traditional 8yd knife pleat. There has been some service variability, significant price variability, significant turnaround time differences, but the overall quality has been good thus far whether machine or hand sewn. I still have kilts on production at Keltoi (Ancient Caledonia Kingussie 16oz), Bonnie Heather (Allen 13 oz special weave), and Tartanweb (Ancient Red Douglas 16oz special weave) which I expect in the next month or so and will review as they arrive and I get a few minutes.

I would recommend getting quotes from a variety of kiltmakers as to all the above factors, and any more you might have or others might mention. Research makes you a smarter shopper, especially for a higher value custom weave tartan kilt such as you are considering. PM if I can provide further help.

jeff

[kennethrmc]

Kathy Lare makes totally traditional hand sewn kilts at good value, a bit less expensive than comparable from other traditional kilt makers. She is a member of the Scottish Kiltmaker's Guild and has very high standards. After shopping around, I got my good kilt in my clan tartan from her and have been very pleased with it.

[denmcdough]

I've read many good things about Alexis Malcolm, too. I don't have a kilt from her, yet, but my wife has Alexis making a hostess kilt. I'll let everyone know how it turns out once she receives it.

[jordanjm]

I wpuld look at The Scottish Tartans Museum Gift Store Website. I got a tank made in Scotland from them, and they handled all the import stuff.

[NorCalPiper]

I'd like to disagree that machine stitched kilts not having lining, reinforcement for the pleats, or being up to par with hand sewn. Ours do and I believe are indistinguishable on the exterior to a handsewn...Thats just us though. Hothir has it right-Part machine, part hand.

[slohairt]

I'd like to disagree that machine stitched kilts not having lining, reinforcement for the pleats, or being up to par with hand sewn. Ours do and I believe are indistinguishable on the exterior to a handsewn...Thats just us though. Hothir has it right-Part machine, part hand.

As I said, some machine made kilts are partly hand-sewn and do have the necessary reinforcement. Your kilts are in the minority, I'm afraid, as I've altered many machine-made kilts for customers and have never found interfacing, steeking, or a stabilizer inside. Of course, I've also altered hand-sewn kilts lacking the same features...