I have a technique qestion. On sheaf, is your back/right elbow bent or straight on the release?
Mine's bent. Is it supposed to be?
Also, what tartan are ye wearin'?
My arms are probably bent a bit. Radius is important, so the straighter and longer, the better, though. The three key things, I THINK....I am not really all that great of a sheaf tosser....are.
1. BIG windup...get up on your toes, crank that thing back, WAY back
2. drive DOWN to a point about 8-12 inches ahead of your left foot (right foot if you're left-handed)
3. Come up HARD. This is not a subtle event. HARD...power clean HARD, drive your chest up HARD.
Th is is not a "rotation" movement. It's an up-and-down movement. It's different if you're spinning the sheaf throw, though. I'm clueless about that.
....and of course "stop" the left hand, well... the one that's down near the tines of the fork. However, I used to focus on really stopping that hand hard and trying not to let the fork "drift" up higher than my shoulder. After watching a bunch of guys and gals who throw sheaf a lot better than I do, I am less focused on that hard "stop". Yeah, you gotta "stop" the fork to some degree, bot that's not the POINT of the throw. If you drive down and then come UP, really hard, you're not going to be able to stop the fork at your shoulder. Backing off the power of the throw until you CAN stop the fork at your shoulder only results in a whimpy toss. That's no good.
so I say, RIP THE SNOT OUT OF IT, and if your hand winds up at a 60 deg. angle up in the air, but the bag flies off the fork, then hoooray for you!
GGGP, Tartan is the X Marks tartan, BTW.... I sold that kilt about 5 months ago. It was a nice kilt, though.
The back or right hand for a right-handed tosser is what I use to drive the implement downward to produce the flick when the left hand hand blocks.
Bending the back arm also allows you to get the implement more vertical in the backswing.
Here's a nice picture...
But some manage to keep both arms straight on the backswing. Depends on you wingspan and how wide a grip you take on the fork.
The forward arm stays straight pretty much through the throw...
Pretty good finish. Perhaps you recognize Steve Ullom in this picture from ScottishFest 2011.
If you bend the forward arm and try to "curl" the fork, it usually causes the bag to to travel more horizontally than vertically. You can also injure or tear the bicep so best to avoid that.
Kit
'As a trainer my objective is not make you a version of me. My objective is to make you better than me.' - Paul Sharp
GGGP a good sheaf drill to do is to stab the bag, then put the bag on the ground about a foot in front of your left foot. Grip the fork in the usual places and then get into "power position"....the same position you're in when you do a power clean. The bag is still on the ground. Now explode UP, chest up, hips up...stop the left arm as best you can and see if you can PINNNNGGGGG the bag off the fork and straight up in the air and a bit behind you.
Here's my practice video from yesterday. I didn't get all of the throws on video, and the battery dies just as I was starting stones, but if anyone has any technique pointers, I'd appreciate it.
Also, I don't have any implements yet, so I'm practicing with a DIY hammer, and a traffic cone & some dumbbells for WFD :-)
Here's the breakdown:
Video starts with Hammer
1:40 - WFD with a traffic cone
4:13 - WFD with a 15-lb db
4:47 - WFD with a 25-lb db
5:45 - 16# Stone standing throws
1. catch the ball even further behind you on the right. SUPER exaggerate that. Reach back behind your to "catch" the hammer as it comes around. This gives you a longer arc through which you can accelerate the hammer.
2. good job, you're not busting a gut to wind it fast on the first and second wind. That gives you somewhere to go with the third wind. But then, when you get to #3, you gotta GO. Pull the snot outta that thing, fast, fast, fast.
3. Head up at the delivery. Seriously, look straight up in the air. Look at your video. Now look at these pictures.
Look straight up into the sky as you pull to the finish. Watch Heather MacDonald, she has kickbutt hammer delivery. If she'd slow down her first wind and quit laying back as she pulls, she'd have 90 foot hammers, easy.
and finally...totally insane picture of my mentor...Mike Pockoski, just for fun
HOW NOT TO DO IT.....
I actually know this woman...nice gal. I like her. But rotten hammer delivery.
You're also pulling in (short-arming) your hammer release.
Seeing as how you're using DBs for throwing weights, is it safe to assume you don't have any throwing weights? If yes, we can show you how to make some of your own from weight plates, sched 80 pvc, hardware fittings (washers, nuts, 5/8" bolts), chain, quick links or shackles, and such.
Here's an example of the type of weights I build...
This is a 16 lb chain handled hammer. It's a training tool that teaches you throw with your hips rather than your arms (full body winds as opposed to "arm-winding"). This was the only picture I had of my weights that was easily accessible. I can post more later.
Key to this construction is the eye-bolt and the shackle which can bought at any industrial fastener shop. Chain can bought most cheaply at garage sails but Home Depot or Lowes may do in a pinch.
Oh, the 3/4" sched 80 PVC goes around the 5/8" eyebolt shaft and just fits inside a weight plate. Makes everything s o l i d.
The handles may prove to be a problem. If you weld or have a friend who does, you can make your own. You can buy handles mail order for about $20 a piece plus shipping from Bobby Dodd (Mjolnir Hammers Ltd/ Hevy Gear).
Once you get the hang of building practice weights, you make them any size/weight you like. I train with underweight implements to work on speed. You cannot buy an underweight 28 or 56 but you can build one. I have 25, 28, 35, and 42 lb throwing weights. Same thing goes with hammers. I have 10, 12, 14, 15, 16, 19, and 22 lb hammers.
When you get some decent practice weights, I'll show how to use the traffic cone in a technique drill.
Kit
'As a trainer my objective is not make you a version of me. My objective is to make you better than me.' - Paul Sharp
I built this today, found all the parts at Lowe's, the total was just under $25. I'll order a D-Handle for Light WFD from Mjolnir. BTW, they're $30, not $20...
Originally Posted by GoodGirlGonePlaid
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