"WHY" of modern kilts

[Woodsheal]

Every time I see one of these Harris tweed kilts in a tartan-esque pattern, I like it more and more. There's something 'warm' about it. I guess maybe the pattern is a little bit more muted or 'softer' than standard woven wool tartan. You don't see the distinct twill pattern as individual threads. The tartan pattern just seems like it transitions from colour to colour more gently. It gives the overall appearance a more historical, rugged look that I love!

A tartan tweed kilt is definitely on my list of wants, thanks to guys like Matt and Brian. You guys are not helping my pocketbook!!!

"Rugged" is the operative word when describing this fabric. It feels thicker, heavier, and coarser than typical kilting tartan - and well nigh indestructible! Up close, the twill weave is distinctive and larger or "magnified" looking, as if thicker yarns were used to begin with.
I wouldn't recommend it to those who have trouble tolerating the "itchiness" of wool, as this again is a coarser cloth....

[Alan H]

To the OP....

If I felt as you do...

Personally, I'd get myself 2 1/2 yards of a wool tartan that I liked. I'd cut out two pieces of the appropriate length , measured in from the selvedged edges. I'd set aside the leftover for a waistband. I'd joint the two pieces to make a 5-yard piece. I'd fold over and hem the ends, making a rather large folded-under-part on what will be the right hand edge of the over-apron.....forget the fringe.

I'd then box pleat it. Then I'd put on the waistband. Forget the belt-loops, forget the liner unless you just really want a liner. And then I'd get some substantial safety pins off of ebay and I'd pin the kilt on me. Put on a belt....and go about your day.

Those that don't like this, who think it looks shoddy are entitled to their opinions, just like you are entitled to the opinion that a full-constructed "modern" style tartan kilt is uncomfortable and confining.

cheers, mate.

[Mr.Charles Anthony]

Readers:
My thanks to all for the kind words/good comments/ a dandy photo of the Matt.N. box pleated kilt/ and misc. It makes the choice the eaiser.
As to Mr. Ross Question- the kilt is from Burnetts & Struth-to which I sent the measurements. It is their 'ecomonie kilt' When I got it the thing did not fit aright at all. The front aprons bunched and saged when buckled. The fell was sewn down so far that the pleats did not move with me. It was a simple correction. I removed(WITH GREAT CARE) about 3 inches +or-. Now at least it moves with me. I also added the heavy interfacing to the waistband(which was left out in the ecomonie model, it seems.)
The other problem: the aprons do not fall down when you sit, just from the weight of the sporran, is something to get used it. The circa 2011 kilts have the apron edges at about the outside line of the leg(about where the trouser seams would be). On my great kilt, I place the edges on a center line with the knee; they fall very well then when you sit: and do not give the dog something to bark at, when the wind blows! And for the Record the great kilt is the non-endangered PeaVee 'wool'. I think the PV 'wool' is a relation to the famous Naughahide critter!
In sum, I will buy up a lenght of tartan; and build my own Kilt: minimal sewing, I think I will press the pleats, use some fancy, non-suitcase straps(and inside tie off). When I do it I will photo it as I go, and find a way to publish the same. Just don"t look for it anytime soon. 5 yards x 20$ +or- per yard, plus postge, will take me a bit of time to do. I am just a pensioner, living on a chicken wing and a prayer.
Again my thanks to all.
CSA

[McMurdo]

CSA
Have you tryed to get in touch with Burnett's and Struth? I have had a few dealings with them and have found them to be wonderful to work with. I am sure you could explain your concerns with the kilt.

In the past they have done a bespoke tartan jacket for my aunt after the passing of my uncle, in his tartan, it was such a perfect fit that we took possession of it at the first fitting. Perhaps they would be able to come to some sort of arrangement with you if you got in touch with them.

[Iain Robb]

I would second McMurdo's recommendation of contacting B&S, and add this:

I followed their directions for measurements, and when I first received my kilt I was disappointed, primarily because my own expectations were off. I had only had a SportKilt and a Stillwater kilt before that, both of which I wore relatively low.

After I wore the kilt "properly" a few times -- at my actual waist -- it began to grow on me, and when I recently obtained a USA Kilts casual, I had it made to be worn the same way. Those two are now my favorite kilts, in part because of the way they hang and fit.

None of that should be read as me saying CSA is any way wrong; what I am suggesting, however, is that you might want to try it a while and see if you get used to it and actually enjoy it, because that is my experience. Your experience may differ.

[Pleater]

I make my own kilts, in a reverse Kingussie style, and very simply.

I did start a thread on the DIY section showing the latest one, but it is only part done still.

Basically the pleats are pressed in, not sewn down, but sewn onto a narrow waistband.

There are belt loops centre back, at both sides and the end of the over apron - I found that the centre back sagged if I put two loops each side like the sporran strap holders. I don't use straps and buckles, so the kilt is compressed, not stretched, when worn.

The pleats are about 2/3rds of the circumference when worn, so the edges of the aprons and the under apron pleats are ideally placed to fall or open out to allow climbing of gates, or even riding of bicycles.

For the more rugged kilts I place a strip of webbing at the waist, sewn under the waistband.

The sewing is not difficult, it is getting the pressing right which is the most important thing. The pleats need to be pressed so they are right at the hips. They are not just straight down from the waist as that tends to ensure that they roll outwards.

If you can sew at all then its worth having a go at making your own kilt, particularly if you find the standard ones don't suit.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[BoldHighlander]

Our own Matt Newsome will gladly make you a "simplified" box-pleat (as I'm sure will some of our other talented kilt makers). He did this one for me in 18 oz. Harris tweed tartan:





No, it was just some nice fabric Matt had on hand at the time. It's sort of a Grant/Drummond (I think!). Apparently Harris tweed can now be had in a variety of tartan setts.

Not to hijack this thread, BUT oh my, Brian!
If Macdonell of Keppoch (ancient) can be had in Harris tweed, I may have to get one, rather I ever get back into reenacting or not!

[Woodsheal]

Not to hijack this thread, BUT oh my, Brian!
If Macdonell of Keppoch (ancient) can be had in Harris tweed, I may have to get one, rather I ever get back into reenacting or not!

Terry, Matt's website says that custom woven lengths (min. of 5 meters) of Harris tweed can be oredered in any tartan, so there you go!

[thescot]

An interesting thread. However, I would offer the observation that a great kilt--the breachan faile, if you will--is a vialble alternative in certain circumstances.

I have one I've worn to good effect in very dressy, if not outright formal, situations with a Montrose doublet and lace. With the overflow (the part above the belt) properly and carfully twisted, pulled, and draped over the shoulder, it makes a very stunning outfit, and it doesn't look like reenacting.

I only have one photo of me in it, and it's not a very good one, but I'll put it up anyway if I can find it.

[Woodsheal]

You make a good point, Jim. Nowadays the belted plaid ("great kilt") is largely disparaged as an unkempt, "costumey" item best left to reenactors and Braveheart wannabes.

In fact, in earlier days after the "little kilt" made its appearance, the full plaid was considered the more formal and dressier garment. The kilt was considered more as working garb, or as fatigue dress in the Highland regiments.

As you say,the belted plaid can still look quite impressive as part of a formal get up....