Tess,
Make this kilt exactly as you would a normal kilt. Everything should be the same. Same aprons, same deep and reverse pleats, same techniques.
Sew the Fell first just as you would a normal kilt. Just sew the pleats going in the other direction. Pretend you are left handed.
Then baste the pleats just as you would for a normal kilt.
Press.
Then flip the thing inside out and flop the inside of the pleats over. Viola.
Re-baste a second time and press again.
Cut away the excess behind the Fell, insert stabilizer, interfacings and put the liner in, the straps and buckles and waistband.
Now, here comes the really tricky part.
Close your eyes, wave your hands slowly over the kilt and recite. "You're a military box pleat kilt. You can see yourself as a military box pleat kilt, you can feel it. Believe you are a military box pleat kilt."
Open your eyes and look down. See? Just like magic, there it is.















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