Creating new patterns for kilt jackets

[gilmore]

What a clever and inexpensive was to make a customized tailor form.

[Moosedog]

I've made similar patterns but instead of duct taping directly over a t-shirt I first wrap the model's torso (or whatever body part you need--for instance this is a great way to make moccasin patterns) in plastic wrap. The tape adheres to this--I think it allows it to be cut and removed more easily resulting in a slightly more precise fit. It can also be, depending on one's relationship with the model, somewhat more amusing.

Moosedog

[AtagahiKC]

Great tip, Moosedog.

[Dixiecat]

Also, I think that for the purpose of measuring for kilt jackets, we will want to wear a kilt and a shirt or sweater to take the measurements. That way, we will know what the actual measurement is over the clothes that are to be worn.

Don't do this. Clothing could add bulk to places where you need good fit. If your goal is to get something that fits bodies outside the 'norm', then measuring over clothing that would generally not be custom-made will distort your true measurements.

What you should do is take your actual body measurements, then add ease to those measurements. If you want your jacket to fit over bulky garments, then by all means measure the body wearing them, but use the difference of the body measurements and the clothing measurement as the ease to be added to the body measurements.

About the fell line. I don't think you really need to be exact when drafting the pattern. Do the 1/3 fell calculation that Barb gives you as a rough basis (minus the 2" rise). Add a couple inches or so to that measurement and when you try on your first trial jacket, put your kilt on at the same time. Mark where your fell is (or the average fell of those of you with more than one kilt) and use that as your measurement for your jacket. Lol, of course this assumes that your fell is in the right place, kinda like a chicken and egg thing now....

You could measure the kilt flat, but that assumes the person wearing it is wearing it at the waist that you used for your jacket. I know dancers that wear their kilts on their hip. Trying on insures both your jacket and kilt agree.

[AtagahiKC]

I'm taking a break on this through the holidays. We'll resume where we left off after New Year's Day.

Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah and Happy New Year!

[AtagahiKC]

In case someone wants to request it for Christmas, the book I settled on for patternmaking in general is "How to Make Sewing Patterns" by Donald H. McCunn, $24.95.

How to Make Sewing Patterns on Amazon

After reviewing all the books suggested and figuring out what will be the most helpful, yet something we can all understand and replicate, this book stood out from the rest.

This is not a tailoring book. This book teaches how to take measurements and then how to make master patterns (in women's clothing, it would be called a sloper), from which you can adapt to make just about any pattern or adapt commercial patterns.

While the book is intended for women, it includes good instructions on how to make the master pattern for men, as well as how to alter it for various types of men's clothing. Most of the other patternmaking books ignored men.

Aside from its simplicity, it is also the most versatile of the approaches. I think that once we have our master patterns, making the various jackets will be easier and make the tailoring process less complex.

You can also use it to alter the commercial patterns for kilt jackets, should you wish to do that.

In contrast, the tailor patterns rely on alterations and padding to fit the pattern to the man. We'll still do some of that, but it won't be as large a task.

You can use the master pattern to make shirts or coats, so it has value beyond this project. While we won't do the slacks here, it does include instructions for making a master pattern for that, as well.

I can't copy the pages or quote it wholesale, so you will need to get the book.

[AtagahiKC]

Thanks for the post, Dixiecat.

I'm sorry for the delay in this project. I'm continuing to work on this, but it is taking a back seat for the foreseeable future. My father has terminal cancer. I'm also interviewing for jobs. Between the two, there isn't a lot of time at the moment.

Sorry for the inconvenience to everyone. Continue on in my absence, if you wish. I'll work on the pattern and post again when I get to a substantive point.