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  1. #41
    Join Date
    29th January 06
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    Rab,
    I don't think anyone can touch your work for artistry and spirit. Yours are the only sgians I've ever seen that I would really want to purchase. Honestly, if I had seen your web site before I ordered my blade blanks I'd have probably just ordered one of your finished knives and none of this would have happened!

    Thanks for the tips. The wax trick is one I've heard before but forgotten.

    Here is the sheath. Unike most I extended one side up to keep the handle from hitting my leg. I was noticing some irritation when I used a normal sheath...my skin was not happy about either the oil finish or the walnut wood.




    Bill
    Last edited by Tartan Hiker; 11th December 06 at 09:57 PM.

  2. #42
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    10th November 04
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    Sunny Portland, OR
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    From one biology teacher to another - WOW!!!

    It just reinforces the notion that there isn't anything a teacher can't do..... especially biology teachers....

  3. #43
    Join Date
    18th August 05
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    Maryland Eastern Shore
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    Good stuff, I enjoyed reading it. Think I want to give it a try now.

  4. #44
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    9th January 06
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    Any particular type of oil? Is there a special type or is this a great use for old, used engine oil? For the heat treating phase of course...

    Chris ??:

  5. #45
    Join Date
    6th December 05
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    by Loch Ness
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    Used engine oil is best avoided due to its health dangers.
    Vegetable oil is supposed to be better but whatever you use then make sure you have good ventilation so you don't breath the fumes.

    Rab

    Quote Originally Posted by KiltedKnight
    Any particular type of oil? Is there a special type or is this a great use for old, used engine oil? For the heat treating phase of course...

    Chris ??:

  6. #46
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    6th December 05
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    Thanks for the comments Bill.

    I get a saddle company to make sheaths for me from their leather offcuts if you want any of those.

    Rab

  7. #47
    Join Date
    29th January 06
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    Asheville, NC
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    Same here. The guys at the saddle shop know me very well by now! :-)

    The danger of oil quenching is that it may "flash" into flame at the surface. Motor oil will definitely do this on occasion. I've no idea how likely this would be for vegetable oil, but I'd be very careful. Quenching oil has a very high flash point so the danger of bursting into flames is very low.

    You can't harden without an acetylene torch...propane won't get it hot enough. Any shop that has an acetylene torch will probably have a bucket of quenching oil. If not, water will work, and since these blades are really thick the danger of cracking or warping is low.

    BE CAREFUL! This is a dangerous operation and best left to someone who knows what they're doing. Check the link below for a good discussion of the process.

    http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal/heat.html

    Bill

  8. #48
    Join Date
    5th September 05
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    Chicago
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    For those of us who are playing along at home...will MAP gas work for the tempering? I know that it has a higher operating temp than propane but I'm not sure if it's as hot as acetylene.

    Best

    AA

  9. #49
    Join Date
    5th September 05
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    I'd also like to contribute this link to an interesting site:

    http://www.knifenetwork.com/workshop...er_hearn.shtml

    ...found this a little while ago and this tutorial is pretty interesting. It's easy to see how it might be applied to a Sghian Dhub.

    Best

    AA

  10. #50
    Join Date
    29th January 06
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    Asheville, NC
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    I don't know about MAP gas. It's temp and volume...you have to be able to bring the entire blade to cherry red all at once...that takes a pretty substantial flame. Judging by the MAP units I've seen, they wouldn't be capable of this.

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