Can we define THCD?

[CMcG]

OK. I took a break from my dissertation and typed something out while having afternoon tea. I think the first paragraph could stand on its own as a basic definition of THCD, while the rest amounts to discussion. It is mostly theoretical or conceptual, but I threw in a reference to another thread with concrete examples.

Any thoughts?

---------------------------------------------------------------------

THCD is an acronym that is short for Traditional Highland Civilian Dress. It is used on xmarksthescot.com to refer to the classic style of kilt attire that has been passed down through the generations by Scottish Highlanders and continues to be worn as contemporary apparel with distinctive national, cultural, ethnic, and/or familial significance, but which is neither subject to the clothing regulations of uniforms worn by pipers, dancers, athletes, or the military, nor unduly influenced by the whims of fashion, retailers, or rental/hire companies.

THCD is not historical re-enactment attire or a costume. Its roots lie in the everyday clothing of the Highlanders, but after the Battle of Culloden in 1745, the Highland Dress Proscription Act (1746–1782) effectively ended the kilt’s use as daily attire. It was re-imagined in the nation-building tartan pageantry orchestrated by Sir Walter Scott for King George IV’s historic visit to Scotland in 1822 and further developed during the Victorian fascination with the Scottish Highlands. Contemporary THCD settled into its current form in the early 20th century and was largely codified by the 1950s. Nonetheless, it has continued to evolve—albeit slowly—and some things that were common fifty years ago are now rarely seen in the early 21st century.

THCD is not a monolithic set of rules. Instead, it is a group of conventions, mores, values, and aesthetics that structure—and are structured by—the practice of traditional kilt-wearers. With a kilt as the centrepiece, there are a great many options in terms of accessories, with a fairly well established, if somewhat conservative, approach to building outfits for any given level of formality (see the sticky 1 Kilt 10 Looks for visual examples). The complexity of this situation can prove daunting for newbies, which seasoned Xmarkers mitigate by providing simplified guidelines that could be mistaken for regulations. Once someone is more experienced, however, they tend to realize the areas of core sartorial consensus and discover the ample room for personal flair.

The admittedly porous and often contested boundaries of THCD can be summarized with a metaphor of source and stream. Flowing water that is cut off from its source will eventually dry up, just as a stream that joins a river becomes diluted, and a river quickly loses its identity if it flows into the ocean. Kilt attire that is strongly connected to its origins remains squarely within the bounds of tradition, but the further it departs from its source, the more diluted it becomes until it is untraditional. There is a lot of room for grey area between the poles of tartan, tweed, and tattersall THCD and something like a utility kilt worn in extreme cyber-punk style.

[creagdhubh]

Very well written, Colin! I absolutely love it!!!

[Jock Scot]

Well, it might be possible for "hope to triumph over experience" after all? I think, in this case, it may be. Well done Colin and thank you for your precious time.

Speaking for myself, Colin has come up with a post that covers the very essence of THCD. His words are precise enough to cover the "angles" and vague enough to allow for all aspects of traditional kilt attire context. A short snappy definition it is not and frankly, it was never going to be.

However, its not down to me, it is for DavidPope who wrote the OP and ultimately, Steve the owner of this website to decide, but in my view Colin's words should be made a "sticky" and should be placed at the head of the Traditional section of this website.

[Calgacus]

Well done Colin, I think you nailed it.

[davidlpope]

Well done, Colin. I'd strongly support a sticky, once others have had a chance to offer critiques.

I have only two suggested edits:

1) "nation-building" v. "nation building" (although this may be a Canadian English/American English thing...)

2) Despite all the photos of him posted on this forum, I'm not sure that the Prince of Wales is the best example to hold up as the quintessential THCD-wearer. While he certainly knows how to wear THCD with a great personal flair, I'm thinking the better example would be a Highlander with the more typical Highland accents to his wardrobe- gauntlet/mariner cuffs on his jackets, balmoral worn every now and then, etc.

Perhaps someone like the late Colonel Sir Donald Hamish Cameron of Lochiel, K.T.?

[Jock Scot]

Well done, Colin. I'd strongly support a sticky, once others have had a chance to offer critiques.

I have only two suggested edits:

1) "nation-building" v. "nation building" (although this may be a Canadian English/American English thing...)

2) Despite all the photos of him posted on this forum, I'm not sure that the Prince of Wales is the best example to hold up as the quintessential THCD-wearer. While he certainly knows how to wear THCD with a great personal flair, I'm thinking the better example would be a Highlander with the more typical Highland accents to his wardrobe- gauntlet/mariner cuffs on his jackets, balmoral worn every now and then, etc.

Perhaps someone like the late Colonel Sir Donald Hamish Cameron of Lochiel, K.T.?

I never tire of that picture, but I wonder if a picture of a "man on the street" might give a more "normal" idea of THCD?

[davidlpope]

I never tire of that picture, but I wonder if a picture of a "man on the street" might give a more "normal" idea of THCD?

Jock,

I suppose it's a question of "gussied up" v. "workaday". Perhaps both to show the range/versatility?



Or perhaps the current Lochiel for a more "normative" approach?

[Nathan]

I agree with Jock. I don't think the quintessential example of TCHD (still aiming for us to reverse the C and the H) should be one who is permitted to wear feathers. It may lead someone to the conclusion that these accoutrements are a normal part of tradional Highland dress rather than the indicators of rank that they are.

[CMcG]

Well done, Colin. I'd strongly support a sticky, once others have had a chance to offer critiques.

I have only two suggested edits:

1) "nation-building" v. "nation building" (although this may be a Canadian English/American English thing...)

2) Despite all the photos of him posted on this forum, I'm not sure that the Prince of Wales is the best example to hold up as the quintessential THCD-wearer. While he certainly knows how to wear THCD with a great personal flair, I'm thinking the better example would be a Highlander with the more typical Highland accents to his wardrobe- gauntlet/mariner cuffs on his jackets, balmoral worn every now and then, etc.

Perhaps someone like the late Colonel Sir Donald Hamish Cameron of Lochiel, K.T.?

Thanks, David. Good call on the hyphen, which has now been incorporated into my post.

As for who to use as the normative example of THCD at the end of my post, I'm open to suggestions. I picked the Duke of Rothesay because he is alive, easy to find kilted pictures of, and seems to be widely appreciated on the Traditional sub-forum. Perhaps it might be better to include several names?

If anyone else has edits or comments please post here or send me a PM!

[Jock Scot]

Jock,

I suppose it's a question of "gussied up" v. "workaday". Perhaps both to show the range/versatility?





Or perhaps the current Lochiel for a more "normative" approach?

Great pictures of an illustrious Scottish Highland family, who demonstrate perfectly two aspects of THCD. However, I am thinking of more "normal" people wearing examples of THCD. I have a distinct feeling that the impression of the Laird, nice people though they are, is perhaps, not helpful in explaining THCD to many here. After all there are more of "us" than "them"!