‘Flare’ in pleats

[Nemuragh]

I’ve been reading lots on this site and ‘The Art of Kiltmaking’ and have been casting a critical eye on my new kilt. I notice that the pleats ‘flare’ (i.e. get slightly wider) from the bottom of the fell to the bottom of the kilt. Is it preferable that they are completely parallel between fell and lower edge? It seems that geometry would suggest that they should be parallel to avoid the ‘shower curtain’ waviness. Does the inclusion of the slight flare indicate a different (perhaps older) tradition in kiltmaking?

One thing I haven’t looked at yet is to see whether there is a corresponding decrease in the depth of pleat in the same direction - I must have a look.

John

[The Wizard of BC]

To better understand what you are describing, may we ask if you have a photo please.

[Nemuragh]

To better understand what you are describing, may we ask if you have a photo please.

After a bit of footering, I hope this shows things comprehensibly.


General picture of the back of the kilt with the ruler on a pleat where the pleat has been stitched:


Close up, as above:


Half way between fell and bottom of kilt:


Close to the bottom:


The photos show that the pleat gets wider as it goes from the bottom of the fell towards the bottom of the kilt. Interestingly, the depth of the pleat gets shallower which explains why the kilt seems to hang properly (as far as I can tell by peering over my shoulder). It looks that perhaps the pleat has been pressed so as to follow the same line as the taper on the fell.

[The Wizard of BC]

Yes, if you lay a kilt out on a table with the Fell Area flat, the pleats will always splay outwards.

To press a kilt, or to evaluate the accuracy of the pleating, you must lift the Fell Area and sort of "tuck' the pleats up until the horizontal lines are all straight..



But more importatly in your case, is the alignment of the lines in the Tartan to the pleat edge.

Find a pleat where a prominent Tartan line is near the creased edge up near the bottom of The Fell Area. Follow that line and see if it maintains the same distance away from the crease all the way down the pleat.

[BrianHK]

That’s some lovely work, Steve.

[Nemuragh]

Yes, if you lay a kilt out on a table with the Fell Area flat, the pleats will always splay outwards.

To press a kilt, or to evaluate the accuracy of the pleating, you must lift the Fell Area and sort of "tuck' the pleats up until the horizontal lines are all straight..
...
But more importantly in your case, is the alignment of the lines in the Tartan to the pleat edge.

Find a pleat where a prominent Tartan line is near the creased edge up near the bottom of The Fell Area. Follow that line and see if it maintains the same distance away from the crease all the way down the pleat.

I’ve laid the kilt out carefully, as you suggest and, of course, you’re dead right; the pleat edges are pretty much parallel to the lines in the tartan (and, therefore, each other). Phew, what a relief .

[The Wizard of BC]

And when the kilt is worn, do the pleats flare then?

[Nemuragh]

And when the kilt is worn, do the pleats flare then?

As far as I can tell, it hangs properly at the back (peering over my shoulder and squinting in a mirror) My wife tells me it looks OK.

(I should be more positive - I think it looks pretty good!)

[The Wizard of BC]

[Pleater]

Oh my - what is it called when the pulse does a little flutter at the sight of a 'pleat shot'?

I'm hoping for a high percentage of 'normal's - all things considered.....

Anne the Pleater