Sewing Machine problems

[Eujeankilt]

I've been fiddling with kilt making for nearly as long as I've been wearing kilts - 3 years. I've used four different machines and have a common problem. Obviously if the problem follows me to each machine, it must be something I am doing. The problem is this: invariably, when I am sewing through multiple layers such as adding the waistband or belt loops or straps and buckles, I tend to get a birdsnest of thread on the underside of the material. I have cleaned and adjusted the machines and fiddled with thread tension and stitch size. It seems to happen the most when I go back and forth to really tack something down.

It's hard to find a sensible plain guide to using a sewing machine - what size stitches, thread, needles and rules of thumb when choosing. I'm using various types of materials and the problem seems worse with heavier materials like denim and canvas.

What am I doing wrong? Should I not be using "home" sewing machines to do denim and canvas? Is there a good, common sense guide to using sewing machines out there?

Thanks in advance for any advice given.

Dale

[Riverkilt]

Hmmm, maybe that's why kilts are often hand sewn....

Could be the thread too....?? Know the hand sewn kiltmakers are very particular about their thread.

Having grown up in cut and sew factories know there's a huge difference between home sewing machines and industrial sewing machines. Did you see Robert's (RKilts) pics of his shop?

Course with most cut and sew now overseas may be hard to find even a used industrial machine.

Good luck.

[sydnie7]

I had that same problem trying to use "home" machines to sew through multiple layers of heavy-weight material -- specifically, the bird's nest below. In the latest instance, I was using a brand-new Brother machine that performed just fine on other fabrics/fewer layers.

It was solved with purchase of a heavier-duty machine. The Wizard provided some guidelines to used machine purchase in another thread (heh); I found a new machine on eBay for less than $200 and so far so good.

[Eujeankilt]

This is what I've suspected. What kind of machine did you get for $200?

Dale

I had that same problem trying to use "home" machines to sew through multiple layers of heavy-weight material -- specifically, the bird's nest below. In the latest instance, I was using a brand-new Brother machine that performed just fine on other fabrics/fewer layers.

It was solved with purchase of a heavier-duty machine. The Wizard provided some guidelines to used machine purchase in another thread (heh); I found a new machine on eBay for less than $200 and so far so good.

[sydnie7]

This is what I've suspected. What kind of machine did you get for $200?

Dale

I bought an Omega model from this fellow. So far it has sewn everything I can jam under the presser foot. For the same money, you might be able to find an older Singer "industrial" portable, if you have the time to look around. The Omega isn't perfect but it is doing what I need done, and I didn't have the luxury of time to wait for the right used machine to come along.

All the posts about tension and needles and such -- the first post explains that this has happened on multiple machines. Yes, all the things mentioned could be the cause of problem on an individual machine, but I think we are talking about a larger issue here.

[SteveB]

I have a White "Jeans Machine" that sews very well through four or five layers of heavy denim. I use my Singer for regular work, and the White for the heavy work. Yes, it means setting up two spools of thread and two bobbins, but it is well worth it when dealing with variable layers on a sewing project.

Slainte

[Eujeankilt]

Thanks for pointing me to Robert's shop thread. I'm suitably impressed. After 6 years as a motorcycle technician, I know that tools make all the difference. You can have all the skill in the world, but if you don't have the right tools, it's a losing battle.

I've been keeping a watchful eye on Craisgslist and eBay. Used industrial machines can be had for $200 up through $2000. I'm not trying to start a kilt business, but I enjoy making my own kilts and getting friends kilted.

Dale

Hmmm, maybe that's why kilts are often hand sewn....

Could be the thread too....?? Know the hand sewn kiltmakers are very particular about their thread.

Having grown up in cut and sew factories know there's a huge difference between home sewing machines and industrial sewing machines. Did you see Robert's (RKilts) pics of his shop?

Course with most cut and sew now overseas may be hard to find even a used industrial machine.

Good luck.

[Bart_In_A_Kilt]

Bobbin Pressure maybe. Get the manual, or find it on line and see if you can adjust the bobbin pressure . test on some folded scrap rather than tha actual kilt, untill you get it right.

I've been fiddling with kilt making for nearly as long as I've been wearing kilts - 3 years. I've used four different machines and have a common problem. Obviously if the problem follows me to each machine, it must be something I am doing. The problem is this: invariably, when I am sewing through multiple layers such as adding the waistband or belt loops or straps and buckles, I tend to get a birdsnest of thread on the underside of the material. I have cleaned and adjusted the machines and fiddled with thread tension and stitch size. It seems to happen the most when I go back and forth to really tack something down.

It's hard to find a sensible plain guide to using a sewing machine - what size stitches, thread, needles and rules of thumb when choosing. I'm using various types of materials and the problem seems worse with heavier materials like denim and canvas.

What am I doing wrong? Should I not be using "home" sewing machines to do denim and canvas? Is there a good, common sense guide to using sewing machines out there?

Thanks in advance for any advice given.

Dale

[Canuck]

There isn't enough pressure on the presser foot. If you have ever forgotten to put the presser foot down you will notice the bobbin thread bunches up something awful.
On some machines there is a tension screw above the presser foot on the top of the machine. Try turning that a couple of turns to increase the tension. This will also help the feed dog grab the material.
A Walking foot machine helps solve this problem as it feeds both the top and bottom of the project.

[Chas]

Hello All,

For what it is worth, I would advise 2 things (besides what Canuck has to say, which is spot on)

1 - Keep your speed down - that means SLOOOOOOOOW.

2 - Buy the best thread you can afford. Commercial thread is not the same as the stuff you buy at the corner store.

Good luck - have fun.

Regards

Chas