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1st February 09, 02:56 PM
#1
Sewing Machine problems
I've been fiddling with kilt making for nearly as long as I've been wearing kilts - 3 years. I've used four different machines and have a common problem. Obviously if the problem follows me to each machine, it must be something I am doing. The problem is this: invariably, when I am sewing through multiple layers such as adding the waistband or belt loops or straps and buckles, I tend to get a birdsnest of thread on the underside of the material. I have cleaned and adjusted the machines and fiddled with thread tension and stitch size. It seems to happen the most when I go back and forth to really tack something down.
It's hard to find a sensible plain guide to using a sewing machine - what size stitches, thread, needles and rules of thumb when choosing. I'm using various types of materials and the problem seems worse with heavier materials like denim and canvas.
What am I doing wrong? Should I not be using "home" sewing machines to do denim and canvas? Is there a good, common sense guide to using sewing machines out there?
Thanks in advance for any advice given.
Dale
--Working for the earth is not a way to get rich, it is a way to be rich
The Most Honourable Dale the Unctuous of Giggleswick under Table
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1st February 09, 03:01 PM
#2
Hmmm, maybe that's why kilts are often hand sewn....
Could be the thread too....?? Know the hand sewn kiltmakers are very particular about their thread.
Having grown up in cut and sew factories know there's a huge difference between home sewing machines and industrial sewing machines. Did you see Robert's (RKilts) pics of his shop?
Course with most cut and sew now overseas may be hard to find even a used industrial machine.
Good luck.
Ol' Macdonald himself, a proud son of Skye and Cape Breton Island
Lifetime Member STA. Two time winner of Utilikiltarian of the Month.
"I'll have a kilt please, a nice hand sewn tartan, 16 ounce Strome. Oh, and a sporran on the side, with a strap please."
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1st February 09, 03:17 PM
#3
I had that same problem trying to use "home" machines to sew through multiple layers of heavy-weight material -- specifically, the bird's nest below. In the latest instance, I was using a brand-new Brother machine that performed just fine on other fabrics/fewer layers.
It was solved with purchase of a heavier-duty machine. The Wizard provided some guidelines to used machine purchase in another thread (heh); I found a new machine on eBay for less than $200 and so far so good.
Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].
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1st February 09, 03:44 PM
#4
Bobbin Pressure maybe. Get the manual, or find it on line and see if you can adjust the bobbin pressure . test on some folded scrap rather than tha actual kilt, untill you get it right.
 Originally Posted by Mowgli
I've been fiddling with kilt making for nearly as long as I've been wearing kilts - 3 years. I've used four different machines and have a common problem. Obviously if the problem follows me to each machine, it must be something I am doing. The problem is this: invariably, when I am sewing through multiple layers such as adding the waistband or belt loops or straps and buckles, I tend to get a birdsnest of thread on the underside of the material. I have cleaned and adjusted the machines and fiddled with thread tension and stitch size. It seems to happen the most when I go back and forth to really tack something down.
It's hard to find a sensible plain guide to using a sewing machine - what size stitches, thread, needles and rules of thumb when choosing. I'm using various types of materials and the problem seems worse with heavier materials like denim and canvas.
What am I doing wrong? Should I not be using "home" sewing machines to do denim and canvas? Is there a good, common sense guide to using sewing machines out there?
Thanks in advance for any advice given.
Dale
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1st February 09, 03:46 PM
#5
Thanks for pointing me to Robert's shop thread. I'm suitably impressed. After 6 years as a motorcycle technician, I know that tools make all the difference. You can have all the skill in the world, but if you don't have the right tools, it's a losing battle.
I've been keeping a watchful eye on Craisgslist and eBay. Used industrial machines can be had for $200 up through $2000. I'm not trying to start a kilt business, but I enjoy making my own kilts and getting friends kilted.
Dale
 Originally Posted by Riverkilt
Hmmm, maybe that's why kilts are often hand sewn....
Could be the thread too....?? Know the hand sewn kiltmakers are very particular about their thread.
Having grown up in cut and sew factories know there's a huge difference between home sewing machines and industrial sewing machines. Did you see Robert's (RKilts) pics of his shop?
Course with most cut and sew now overseas may be hard to find even a used industrial machine.
Good luck.
--Working for the earth is not a way to get rich, it is a way to be rich
The Most Honourable Dale the Unctuous of Giggleswick under Table
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1st February 09, 03:47 PM
#6
This is what I've suspected. What kind of machine did you get for $200?
Dale
 Originally Posted by sydnie7
I had that same problem trying to use "home" machines to sew through multiple layers of heavy-weight material -- specifically, the bird's nest below. In the latest instance, I was using a brand-new Brother machine that performed just fine on other fabrics/fewer layers.
It was solved with purchase of a heavier-duty machine. The Wizard provided some guidelines to used machine purchase in another thread (heh); I found a new machine on eBay for less than $200 and so far so good.
--Working for the earth is not a way to get rich, it is a way to be rich
The Most Honourable Dale the Unctuous of Giggleswick under Table
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1st February 09, 04:20 PM
#7
There isn't enough pressure on the presser foot. If you have ever forgotten to put the presser foot down you will notice the bobbin thread bunches up something awful.
On some machines there is a tension screw above the presser foot on the top of the machine. Try turning that a couple of turns to increase the tension. This will also help the feed dog grab the material.
A Walking foot machine helps solve this problem as it feeds both the top and bottom of the project.
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1st February 09, 04:59 PM
#8
Hello All,
For what it is worth, I would advise 2 things (besides what Canuck has to say, which is spot on)
1 - Keep your speed down - that means SLOOOOOOOOW.
2 - Buy the best thread you can afford. Commercial thread is not the same as the stuff you buy at the corner store.
Good luck - have fun.
Regards
Chas
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1st February 09, 06:42 PM
#9
It could be the needle - check that it is not bent, is still sharp, and is correctly inserted into the clamp.
The easiest money I ever earned on a sewing machine repair was the thirty seconds that it took to discover that the needle was 180 degrees wrong.
The thread is carried down and has to meet up with the mechanism underneath for the stitch to be made correctly.
It might also be an idea to take out the removable bits of the bobbin holder, brush out any dust and fibre, oil and then reassemble checking that everything is in the right place, as that too can affect the stitch formation. There is usually a diagram in the manual.
Sometimes when sewing through several thicknesses with a needle that is too thin the needle distorts with the pressure on it and again the stitches do not form correctly. Needles are available in various thicknesses and you need to match them to the sort of sewing youare doing.
Anne the Pleater
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1st February 09, 08:09 PM
#10
Also you might want to check to see if your bobbin is wound tight enough. I had the same problem and the bobbin would also throw multiple loops under the feed plate. I dumped the thread onto another spool, checking the tension, and the problem went away.
Last edited by Moski; 12th February 09 at 12:55 AM.
"The Highland dress is essentially a 'free' dress, -- that is to say, a man's taste and circumstances must alone be permitted to decide when and where and how he should wear it... I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed." -- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.
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